^^ not doubting the wood one bit, but a proper wood taper should take the brunt of the impact load and transfer it to the rest of the shaft.
a trick that works is to spray wd40 into the inside taper of one of the empty field points or blunts.
place the point in some pliers, then fill the point with hot glue. immediately get a bamboo skewer and push it into the center of the glue and let it cool.
when it cools, remove the popsicle and you'll have a perfect mold to match your arrow tapers to.
you will most likely have to trim the over flow glue after it dries, but afterward, this will really allow you to see how much you need to taper for that specific point.
