Dry heat and Titebond?

[Academonicon]

The string on this black locust recurve is falling pretty significantly to the right of where I want it to be, so I'd like to somehow use heat to correct the problem, but the issue is that the maple backing has already been glued down with Titebond III, so steam-heating is right out.  Would dry heat cause a problem with the glue?  Also, what's the best way to deal with the off-center string issue?  I'm thinking about twisting the limbs a little to correct it, but I'm not sure that's actually going to make an arrow fly any straighter.

[Badger]

  I have had better luck rebuilding the grip, lightly pull back on the string with the handle just ballanced in the web of your hand, whichever way the bow is facing here is the way it should be shot. If you can somehow modify your grip to accomadate this you might be better off. I have built them up t=with epoxy putty and reground them to fit a few times now.

[Pat B]

TiteBond glues break down at 150deg (F) so any heating can ruin the lamination.

[mikekeswick]

  I have had better luck rebuilding the grip, lightly pull back on the string with the handle just ballanced in the web of your hand, whichever way the bow is facing here is the way it should be shot. If you can somehow modify your grip to accomadate this you might be better off. I have built them up t=with epoxy putty and reground them to fit a few times now.

That's the way! You can use leather soaked in superglue too.