Looking at mounting limb to riser now...

[ajooter]

Wondering what is the best splice for a lever?  I assume the splice should be just past the fadeout? 

Second ?....I have about 18" of working limb...how long should my levers be?  The limbs are 1.5 " wide btw...wood is hickory....stave not board form. Looking for about 50#.

Thanks for all the comments in advance.

[Limbit]

Most people just use a V splice like the first one for levers and you can see the same done for horn bows. The fish tail (is that the name? I forget) is probably going to be a real hassle that far up the limb. If you are concerned, you can always make the splice longer. It is easier to align a V splice with the rest of the bow that far up as well. One concern I have had about this is breakage in a non-backed bow. Most splices like this have a backing material over the top of them, but I have seen two examples off the top of my head of mollies made with inserted levers and no backing material. The one that stuck out was an ash molly with purpleheart levers. Looked hot. The only ones I've made were backed so I didn't fret it breaking.

[ajooter]

By backed you mean a hard backing? Or just rawhide possible ly?

[PatM]

Put it right in the outer fade. A simple v about 3.5 inches long is fine.

[ajooter]

What do you mean by outer fade Pat?  The end of the v right at the fade transition or center the 3.5" over the fade?   Thanks again. For the comments.

What about lever length?  I was thinking about making an eiffel tower type molly like bushboy...just wondering on lever length with 18" of working limb....I was thinking 6 to 8" levers?

[Del the cat]

I've not done a couple of Molle's but I'd suggest lever length anywhere between 1/2 - 1 times the working limb length (so 3/4 working limb length is pro'b a safe bet ).
I'm not sure what is meant by fade... there's the fade from grip to working limb. There isn't really a fad from working limb to lever except over the actual length of the splice itself (and +1 to the simple V splice, bound with thread & glue)
I'm happy to be put right by those have more experience of these.
Del

[PatM]

Whatever your typical transition from working limb to lever is in the outer limb is the "outer fade". Some people make this almost as dramatic as a handle fade. The splice should occupy this region.

[Springbuck]

I'm with Pat.. this used to scare me, but it works just fine.  I start thickening the limb maybe just before the bottom of the "V" of the splice.  Then get a good fit and wrap it.

I personally like Mollies with a 2/3 working limb, 1/3 lever.  Are you counting the distal fades as part of the working limb? With 18" limbs, 2-3" transition, and an 8"" handle/fades section, 10" levers past the splice would get you in the 66-68" range.  Adjust according to your needs.

[ajooter]

I ordered some smooth on mt-13..but do I need an epoxy for a lever splice or can one use tite bond 3?  I would be using the v-splice discussed above.

[PatM]

Epoxy is always better if you are iffy on your splice cuts which you probably will be until you practice a bit.

[ajooter]

It wasnt horrible by any standards but will require steam to tighten the joint up.  I'll post some pics in a couple minutes.

[PatM]

If you're getting epoxy, just use it. It's just better.

[ajooter]

Here is the splice and the initial profile of the lever.  The levers are red oak and two different colors of poplar.  I will steam the limb splice and cinch that v together a little better before I slap the epoxy on her.  I used my pull saw to cut the splice and it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be.

[PatM]

The splices look a little short and wide. I always have them only about 5/8 wide or even less at the opening.  Your outer limb should be tapering abruptly at that point.

[ajooter]

Ya say that now pat!! Haha...they are 3" long and just shy of an 1.5" wide.  No going back now..just gonna have to see how it goes.  I may be able to cinch the v splice down some and narrow the v on the lever?