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Author Topic: Set, just checking  (Read 6638 times)

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Offline huisme

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Re: Set, just checking
« Reply #15 on: February 12, 2016, 05:05:56 pm »
I have to agree with what I think he's getting at, I don't brace a shorter bow lower just because it's short, if it can't handle a normal brace it needs to not go to its new owner and I start another bow.

That being said I currently have a 52" recurve with a 7" riser braced to 6.5" and pulling 25" so my idea of what's short is a little off beat. I'll probably post this bow and a little batty thing I've been working for ages...
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50#@26"
Black locust. Black locust everywhere.
Mollegabets all day long.
Might as well make them short, save some wood to keep warm.

Offline k-hat

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Re: Set, just checking
« Reply #16 on: February 12, 2016, 05:13:57 pm »
Pearlie he had something about higher braces than normal and overdrawing the bow, then it was deleted. 

That said, why would u intentionally add set to a bow with an unnecessary brace and overdrawing?  Makes no sense to me.  In fact, the less set u induce with tillering, bracing, and breaking in, the better your bow will perform because it will lose less weight (btw higher brace=less transfer of energy)  For my personal bows, i do the lowest brace i can get away with (with other factors in consideration), and never overdraw it.  Bows for other ppl, well there i just tiller in an extra inch just in case (if they are inexperienced), but theres no point in overstressing it. If they pull a stupid and over draw or whatever, well I don't take responsibility for that..having forewarned them of course.
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Offline BowEd

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Re: Set, just checking
« Reply #17 on: February 12, 2016, 05:57:34 pm »
Ok here's my version.....lol.When I unbrace a bow after shooting a few hours or so and I take an immediate[like within a half a minute or sooner] check against something flat I call that soft set.I judge my tillering by how much soft set a bow takes.If not much good so be it.The limbs to me are'nt being stressed much and my design for that type of wood worked.
Two hours later I measure again and remember what I started with before tillering and the difference I call hard set or permanent set.Some bows can gain a minor tweak overnight but not much.
To me it's a check on my tillering skills.
Like I've heard said the bow has to bow to the string.Can't avoid it.
I brace a bow as low as I can usually around 7" to back of handle or depending how deep your handle is about 5 and 5/8" to belly of handle to the point that the arrow is not on the string while the shaft is beginning to paradox.I'll get the most I can from that brace height to my arrow.Works for me.
No point in over bracing because of wrist slap or something like that.If your wrist gets slapped there s something wrong with the release.In fact I shoot lots of times with no arm bracer at all.It's on there in case I hiccup during release really....lol.
Maybe it's a weird way to understand[but I don't think so] it but so be it.
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BowEd
You got to stand for something or you'll fall for anything.
Ed

Offline huisme

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Re: Set, just checking
« Reply #18 on: February 12, 2016, 06:06:00 pm »
I overbrace because I've had a lot of archers disregard my recommended 5.5-6.5" brace and jump straight to 8" and over stress their bow. Everyone's brace height is more right than everyone else's brace height so might as well get it over with in the shop.
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50#@26"
Black locust. Black locust everywhere.
Mollegabets all day long.
Might as well make them short, save some wood to keep warm.

Offline BowEd

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  • BowEd
Re: Set, just checking
« Reply #19 on: February 12, 2016, 06:17:39 pm »
You do what pleases you.
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BowEd
You got to stand for something or you'll fall for anything.
Ed

Offline bradsmith2010

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Re: Set, just checking
« Reply #20 on: February 12, 2016, 07:23:47 pm »
over bracing a bow is a bad idea,, its like overdrawing a bow several inches,,
it only strains the bow more than necessary
and also reduces the cast of the bow at the same time
and increases " set " that that is unnecessary
bracing a bow to a lower height in not coddling ,,,overdrawing a bow damages the bow,,, so does overbraceing,, whats the point,, :)
no need to damage a bow that the bow maker spent many hours getting just right,,
that just my opinion,, :)

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Offline huisme

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Re: Set, just checking
« Reply #21 on: February 12, 2016, 07:55:47 pm »
I agree with your opinion and most of my recipients are of the same mind but I have to be ready for those few who know more about their bows than the guy who made them  ;) Besides, I never ship a bow with excessive set which means I've built them just tough enough to take it so far. Plan for the worst hope for the best.
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50#@26"
Black locust. Black locust everywhere.
Mollegabets all day long.
Might as well make them short, save some wood to keep warm.

Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: Set, just checking
« Reply #22 on: February 12, 2016, 07:57:46 pm »
so I missed something, I assume?
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Offline bow101

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Re: Set, just checking
« Reply #23 on: February 12, 2016, 07:58:54 pm »
"brace the bows higher and don't coddle them." is what I said, Pat B quoted me that my brace was to low.  My brace was only 5 - 5 1/2"  now its more like 6 1/4 - 6 1/2" .  And when shooting the bow pull beyond your length if it breaks then build another.   Hopefully that explains my method of madness.   I have one bow where it relaxes after un bracing.
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Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: Set, just checking
« Reply #24 on: February 12, 2016, 08:02:34 pm »
I guess I still dont understand all this? Brace height is all about tuning a bow, how does coddling come into play based on a bow tuned at, say 5 1/2"? Teach me.
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Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline bow101

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Re: Set, just checking
« Reply #25 on: February 12, 2016, 08:03:29 pm »
Quote from: bradsmith2010 on February 12, 2016, 07:23:47 pm
bracing a bow to a lower height in not coddling ,,,

I did not say coddling had anything to do with bracing.
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Offline willie

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Re: Set, just checking
« Reply #26 on: February 12, 2016, 08:44:47 pm »
PD

do you tune your bow to the arrows, or build your arrows to suit the bow?

thanks

willie
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Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: Set, just checking
« Reply #27 on: February 12, 2016, 08:53:25 pm »
I tune the bow to the arrow by adjusting brace height, nock height and tip weight.
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Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline Badger

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Re: Set, just checking
« Reply #28 on: February 12, 2016, 09:19:03 pm »
  I do as Pearl does but I try to start off with the spine pretty close on the arrow.
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Offline bradsmith2010

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Re: Set, just checking
« Reply #29 on: February 12, 2016, 10:13:14 pm »
I do whatever I need to do, to get the bow to shoot well(which is usually not much),,when someone is having an issue with spine etc, sometimes the bow is not designed well, the string is laying on the wrong side of the handle etc  etc, if the bow is built well,, it will shoot a wide range of spine,, and not be so sensitive to brace either,, shooting a fairly low brace with ease,,and shooting longer or shorter arrows as well,,forgiving
if the arrow pass is too wide,, or release is bad, then raising the brace can compensate for alot of issues,,,but at risk of compromising the life of the bow,,or the performance,,
shoot a bow at 5 inches though the chrono,, see how she does,, now brace it up to 8 inches and shoot 100 arrows,, go back the chrono and you will see why a high brace is over rated to say the least,,make the bow well and you won't have to brace it high,,, :)
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