Glue for a BBO..?

[bubby]

Smooth on cures in 24 hours and as far as a hot box here in nor cal i just stick it in the truck cab works great, but like it says cures at room temp in 24 hrs and is quite a bit cheaper than west and g2, my main reason to use it is pot life and no slip but we can argue this crap all day and not accomplish anything

[PatM]

The only point was that without a hot box smooth-on does not attain high temp resistance or likely its maximum strength.  The other epoxies may just be more readily available locally  for some. By the time I pay shipping for smooth-on it's going to be more expensive.

   Sure we can use our vehicles when it's warm out but that's not much good when you're building in the middle of winter.   

[PaulN/KS]

I don't have a hot box . Thanks for the info about the Devcon, good to know.
I'll have to see what the availability of some of those other type epoxys mentioned is here in NE Ks.?
Considering the fact that this is likely a one time deal maybe the TB3 route is best for me.
I'll just need to do the glue up to some fast music in the shop.. 

[Slivershooter]

In the past I have used Resorciol, Urac, Titebond II & III, and Smooth-on, for BBO's with good results.  By far, Smooth-on is my favorite.  If you use Titebond, do a couple of dry practice runs first to get all of your clamps and what not organized, it speeds up the process.  When the dry run is assembled check it closely for any gaps or stiff (straight) spots.

[Springbuck]

 Titbond III is hella strong and great stuf, but, as mentioned, you need very well mated surfaces, and you have only a little time during glue up.  I almost always do any glue up in stages with TB III, like if you have a handle, limb wedges, or power lamination to do, don't try to get all that AND the backing on.

I also have good success slapping a sizing coat of TB III on the laminations.  I pour some glue into a cup and add a little water until it feels runny, but thick like house paint.  I paint it on the surfaces, leave it a moment, and scrape off the excess with a popsicle stick.  In a few minutes, while still tacky, I quickly load up one surface heavily with glue and lay them up.  I think it really works well, but you have to watch out for some woods wanting to cup when you wet them.

[PaulN/KS]

Thanks for the TB3 info and tips.
This will be a fairly simple glue up of the thin flat piece of 1/4 sawn osage to the bamboo. Once that is done I'll add the piece for the handle.
It's a narrow, 7/8", strip of bamboo and the osage "board" is only about 3/8" thick so I have a nice block of narrow ring osage for the handle.

[PatM]

Many people note that TB will creep visibly where your glued on handle transitions through the fades.

[missilemaster]

I hate TB!!! No plans on ever going back to it for anything other than snakeskin backing! It creeps like no tomorrow. I use smooth on and love it, just sand everything with 36 grit paper before the glueup.

[Dances with squirrels]

Creeping, especially in the dips, is unacceptable.

[PaulN/KS]

OK, what is "creep"..?

[PatM]

When the glue is soft enough to allow the wood to move at the joint. Laminations slip a little and the smoothly blended pieces will develop a "lip" where the handle piece joins the belly section.
  Think of it the way a glacier moves across the land.

[PaulN/KS]

Ah, thanks Pat. I shall watch out for that when I do the glue up.

[PatM]

You won't see it until later. The wood needs to experience  bending stress and moisture and temperature fluctuation to let the movement happen.

[Badger]

  If the glue line is thick enough to allow creep you have bad glue line. TB won't tolerate any gaps to speak of.

[PatM]

I've still heard of guys making invisible glue lines having problems with TB in that area,