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[PlanB]

Rich, I already trimmed it some a few minutes ago before I read your post -- I went 2" wide from fades straight to 16" from the tips, then tapered to 1/2" tips. So I couldn't back up to a straight end profile for an eastern woodlands bow (as I understand it).

Overall length is 68+ right now. I was feeling kinda cautious since the last bow was 1-5/8 black birch and didn't think I could make weight without straining. It was down to 60" piked and heat treated, etc. Still couldn't do it.

This one I was thinking the design would be: limbs are straight for 18" out, then taper for 16" -- sorta between flatbow and pyramid. And maybe not fool with anything as far as steaming or heat bending or treating, and just let it be what it is because of that clean reflex already there. I don't know -- I guess it'll uhhhh "speak to me" as I go along about that.

Anyway, I could leave it 2" straight from near the fades. But what you suggested is still tempting, and I could cut the straight section down in approaching the fades to give it a more blade like shape like the Sudbury bow. Willie was kind enough to send pics of that, and it's something I really want to do. But I'm a little worried about strain in the waisted section with black birch, as stiff as it is (compared to the ash of the Sudbury). And I wouldn't know how to tiller it there.

Maybe I should wait for that, and get this bow done to have a trade bow I like, and then try that one -- you know, Plan C?

[stuckinthemud]

David:
Listen to half eye That is good advice.
And I don't know what tillering setup you have but if you're up close to the bow when you're pulling the string it can be difficult to see how it bends. See if someone can snap a picture while you're pulling the string it that you can look at , it really helped me to get some perspective.

I find standing near a big mirror or other reflective surface allows you to flex the bow and look at it at the same time, but use an arrow clearly marked with the pull-distance so you do not over-bend the bow. Alternatively video yourself pulling it from the side (like with an ipad or smart-phone) - the small screen really shows up the tiller

[half eye]

Mr B,
     Man ya got a plan....I'd stick with it sir. Hey I'm old and stuck on Eastern NA bows so ya know what they say.....they all look a like to me
rich

[PlanB]

I think I'll taper above the fades in just a leetle.........

Next one EWB for sure!

[turtle]

Started working on getting limbs on the vine maple floor tillered better. While working on the big whoopty do I opened up an unseen nasty knot.  Soaked it with super glue and guess I will just have to leave that area stiff. Unless you guys have any better ideas on how to hande it.

[burchett.donald]

Rich,
         That's some "half eye" work on that quiver...Creative work and accurate paintings! Looks like that was found 300 yrs. ago in an Ojibwa camp...It's my understanding that the big underwater cat protected the copper in your lake around Michigan
                                                                                             Nice work bud, Don

[jandersson]

Dubois:
With the lilac get it down to when you're gonna put it on the tillering tree. I had to steam the whole limb for about 45-60 to get results.  Also what I noticed is that even though I'd steamed it for so long it was still pretty stiff almost like I had not steamed it at all. When I steamed some red oak it got soft but not this one. Part of my mistake was I left it to thick and that was about 1/2" thick.
Good luck sir!

[Fred Arnold]

turtle, did you dig all of the rot out before applying the sg? If you did you should be fine. Otherwise I'd drill the decay out, clean around it and then build it up with glue and sawdust.

I'm amazed at how well all of you are doing so far. This may danged near the best bow trade I've ever witnessed. Thanks to all of you for the great participation. You guys all are chipping in to answer every question presented and sharing knowledge that we're all learning from.

I'd at this time like to give a special "Thank You" to Mr. Rich Rouseau (half eye). Your involvement, knowledge, and sharing has been an inspiration to me and all of us here on this trade. This wouldn't have been possible without your generous giving help.

[half eye]

Damned Fred....now ya got me all kinda red here.....I agree on the "best" trade comment. I believe that with everybody sharing these are gonna be real kick-butt bows and some good memories as well.

Mr. Burchett,  you must have been researchin there ya sneaky little devil....cause your spot on the "underwater panther" thing.

rich

[turtle]

turtle, did you dig all of the rot out before applying the sg? If you did you should be fine. Otherwise I'd drill the decay out, clean around it and then build it up with glue and sawdust.

It wasn't rotten. Just slightly soft around the edges.  But the more wood I remove from the belly the bigger it gets.

[Fred Arnold]

Steve, my guess? is that you should still be okay. You might want to ask others that you know who've
built more than I have. I've only had a couple that were left in the working part of the limb and they were both osage.

[PlanB]

Three cheers for the red guy in green!

[PlanB]

This is the shape it's gonna be, and now I'm quittin' for the day before I floor tiller it too far....

[Fred Arnold]

Plan B, love that profile. That should be a shooter.

[turtle]

Well after several hours studying that bad spot I decided that even leaving it stiff that I still needed to remove more wood. Low and behold the spot started getting smaller. Maybe it will dissappear before I'm done.