Author Topic: Antler tine horizontal (shaft) punch  (Read 8089 times)

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Offline Hummingbird Point

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Antler tine horizontal (shaft) punch
« on: December 16, 2015, 06:33:04 pm »
Been messing around with a deer tine as a shaft punch, seeing how far I could push things using various pieces of rock from the scrap pile.  In each example, all of the work was done using the horizontal punch, including setting up of all platforms.  Some platforms were then abraded using a flat hammerstone.  The two things that I found interesting were the broad range of flakes that can be taken and how much thinning and shaping can be done with a tool like this.  As you can see below, each of these preforms needs only a little pressure work to become finished points.  I draw no conclusions from any of this, and make no claims this was how it was done.  Just showing an odd little side trail I stumbled down and may or not follow much further.

The tool.  Tine bound to "shaft" with one squirrel's worth of rawhide which was then covered with tanned deer skin.



Hardaway preform, North Carolina Rhyolite, 5.3 mm thick:




Hardaway Dalton preform, raw Georgetown, 5.3 mm thick:




Bifurcate preform, Kentucky Hornstone, 6.2 mm thick:


 

Offline Hummingbird Point

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Re: Antler tine horizontal (shaft) punch
« Reply #1 on: December 16, 2015, 06:37:47 pm »
A couple more photos.  I seldom work with obsidian, but found a small piece of gold sheen in the scrap pile and decided to see how it would work.  Sorry the pictures suck, something about that gold sheen was causing me trouble no matter which way I tried to get the shot.  This two inch preform thinned down to 4.8 mm.  The same tool was used on both sides but look how different the flaking is:




Offline turbo

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Re: Antler tine horizontal (shaft) punch
« Reply #2 on: December 16, 2015, 10:06:26 pm »
Nice, thanks for the update, I still need to make one and there's some good ole' NC green rock in there too.

Offline nclonghunter

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Re: Antler tine horizontal (shaft) punch
« Reply #3 on: December 16, 2015, 10:08:13 pm »
Interesting Keith, I like that you are pushing things to see what results you get. I have also been looking at different techniques. I think once you learn how to break off a good flake and set up platforms you can use different techniques to get similar results. I am confident I could hand you a hammerstone and antler and you can make a quality hunting point using different techniques. I think what I am saying is the understanding of how to work the rock is more important than what tool you use. Hope that makes sense. Thanks for posting.
There are no bad knappers, only bad flakes

Offline le0n

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Re: Antler tine horizontal (shaft) punch
« Reply #4 on: December 17, 2015, 12:35:18 am »
The same tool was used on both sides but look how different the flaking is...

i think i'm starting to notice this on some rocks i work. almost as if i have to determine the grain before i begin working. in most cases, if i were to learn the directional grain after making a few passes, it would probably end up on the short side of a flake. then again, some flakes are just oriented properly and both edges flake very similarly.

Offline Tom W

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Re: Antler tine horizontal (shaft) punch
« Reply #5 on: December 17, 2015, 08:32:47 am »
Thanks for sharing Keith, your post are easy to follow and accurate.
One thing leads to another...

Offline iowabow

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Re: Antler tine horizontal (shaft) punch
« Reply #6 on: December 17, 2015, 10:09:02 am »
I liked the accounting for the amount of squirrel hide used. I agree nicely explained.
(:::.) The ABO path is a new frontier to the past!

Offline Hummingbird Point

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Re: Antler tine horizontal (shaft) punch
« Reply #7 on: December 17, 2015, 11:54:18 am »
I do think there's something to this horizontal punch idea.  I really like jackcrafty's way of doing it, I think it makes more sense than the shaft method in a number of ways, I just can't personally get it to work, which is why I'm currently doing it this way. The action on both methods, as far as I can tell, is the same.  By tilting the rock different angles, and changing the speed and angle of the strike, you can edge trim, set up platforms, remove square edges, take big, wide thinning flakes, long thin flakes and flakes that any archy looking at the piece would swear are pressure flakes.   While small adjustments are needed as you go, the method is almost as fast as direct percussion, once you get somewhat used to the motions.  I have little idea how or why it works.  I'm like a monkey flailing away and slowly getting a "feel" for what works and what doesn't.  That is, if you asked me to take a certain kind of flake, I would be hit or miss at this point.  The nice thing about this method, though it that it compensates for mistakes better than anything else I've tried (and I've tried just about everything).  This is because this method allows for high power (but not as high as direct percussion), very high accuracy, and seems to produce low shock to the piece being worked.  You can get insanely long flakes from tiny platforms.  If you want to try it, this is one thing that doesn't work:  You would think the idea of the shaft is to allow you to push the antler into the platform, then strike.  No.  The platform is brought up to the antler, but not pushed into it.  The action is something along the lines of the tool flexing into the stone and (at least sometimes) sliding downward to create a pulling motion.   Another thing is, I have found -- and this is also true of my antler base horizontal punch -- that this method is most efficient if you start with a mid-stage preform.  In other words, it does not replace direct percussion, it subliments it by filling in that gap between the mid-stage preform and the late stage preform where all the problems are.  (You all know what I mean). The other area where it really shines -- and this is true to a lesser extent of vertical punches as well -- is in getting the most from limited rock resources.  If a method like this was used it was likely of limited value in the quarry, but once away from the pile of good rock it is very valuable.  The rhyolite piece above is a good example.  It was in the scrap heap beacuse it was essenially a large, snapped blade flake, so it had a thick ridge running down the middle and a square edge.  Combined with it being a kind of tough grade of the material, I knew that by the time I set up the platforms needed to remove the ridge and square edge, I wouldn't have much left to work with.  The combination of power and accuracy of the horizonital puch allowed me to make a preform that is thinner and probly twice as wide as I could have made by direct percussion.   On the other hand, If I was sitting up on the mountain in a pile of rhyolite, it wouldn't have been worth the trouble.

Incidentily, one average squirrel hide, cutting a quarter inch wide strip around and around in a spiral until you run out of hide yields about 7 feet of lace.

Keith

Offline JackCrafty

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Re: Antler tine horizontal (shaft) punch
« Reply #8 on: December 18, 2015, 01:57:00 am »
Horizontal punch can also be used for notching tough material, especially when starting.  Abo material doesn't hold up well on the inside of the notch, but if you can find strong enough antler, bone, or whatever, it can mean the difference between agonizingly stalled and effortless notches.

Oh yeah, now you got me looking for squirrels...
Any critter tastes good with enough butter on it.

Patrick Blank
Midland, Texas
Youtube: JackCrafty, Allergic Hobbit, Patrick Blank

Where's Rock? Public Waterways, Road Cuts, Landscape Supply, Knap-Ins.
How to Cook It?  200° for 24hrs then 275° to 500° for 4hrs (depending on type), Cool for 12hr

Offline Hummingbird Point

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Re: Antler tine horizontal (shaft) punch
« Reply #9 on: December 18, 2015, 02:50:57 pm »
Horizontal punch can also be used for notching tough material, especially when starting.  Abo material doesn't hold up well on the inside of the notch, but if you can find strong enough antler, bone, or whatever, it can mean the difference between agonizingly stalled and effortless notches.

Oh yeah, now you got me looking for squirrels...

Patrick,

Thanks, that's good to know.  I was already thinking that once I get better control over the process it could work for notching.

Rawhide is amazing stuff. There are very few paleo problems that can't be fixed by a suitable application of rawhide.  All kinds of composite knapping tools can be held together with rawhide.  I have dogwood hammers which I use to beat on quartzite with where the piece of dogwood is lashed down to a T shaped handle with rawhide  and the wood wears out before the rawhide.  In fact, when I need to replace parts, I reuse the rawhide over and over again.  (That's why in the picture above the rawhide is protected by leather, I expect the rawhide to last for many replacements of the antler.)  If you would like to try it I believe you can double or triple the lifespan of your antler punches by lashing them to a handle with rawhide once they get too short.  I really like the squirrels for rawhide, it is strong without being too thick and stiff. Also, I hate working hides, so doing an occasional small project like a squirrel isn't so bad.

Keith

Offline nclonghunter

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Re: Antler tine horizontal (shaft) punch
« Reply #10 on: December 18, 2015, 03:48:44 pm »
keith, are you planning on posting any pics of how you are holding the horizontal punch? Is it the same as JackCrafty's video? Under the leg I believe.
There are no bad knappers, only bad flakes

Offline Hummingbird Point

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Re: Antler tine horizontal (shaft) punch
« Reply #11 on: December 18, 2015, 04:25:08 pm »
keith, are you planning on posting any pics of how you are holding the horizontal punch? Is it the same as JackCrafty's video? Under the leg I believe.

No, I use Marty Reuter's "shaft punch" method:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KaNs7H2ABBw

I have been unable to get the under the knee hold to work.  I somewhat got it going once but it really hurt my calf, so obviously I was doing it wrong.  As far as I can tell the two methods are about equal as far as power, accuracy and the way the antler works on the stone.  I consider them to be more or less the same method, variations of horizontal punching.  I imagine there are any number of other ways to do it (and would love to hear about them).  More and more I am thinking horizontal punching was used, very possibly by two man teams, in which case any holding systems we come up with to use it working alone are adaptations.  (Lost my train of thought there...) 

Keith

Offline JackCrafty

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Re: Antler tine horizontal (shaft) punch
« Reply #12 on: December 19, 2015, 09:19:23 pm »
Marty's technique (in the video above) is actually a hybrid.  Because he is hittting very close to the tip of the shaft punch, it acts more like a vertical punch than a horizontal punch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YkRIv5k3rfk
« Last Edit: December 20, 2015, 01:00:23 pm by JackCrafty »
Any critter tastes good with enough butter on it.

Patrick Blank
Midland, Texas
Youtube: JackCrafty, Allergic Hobbit, Patrick Blank

Where's Rock? Public Waterways, Road Cuts, Landscape Supply, Knap-Ins.
How to Cook It?  200° for 24hrs then 275° to 500° for 4hrs (depending on type), Cool for 12hr