sinew and hawthorn

[stuckinthemud]

Hi All,

I have a hawthorn sapling that was  65" long by 2" by 1 1/2"which I have sawn into two 'staves' one very reflexed, one very deflexed.  I'm thinking of using it to build a short-ish sinew bow.  Would I need to de-crown it? Should I use the deflexed, or reflexed stave, or should I heat them both straight? Or should I just build a couple of long-bows? Any thoughts would be welcome.

[bradsmith2010]

i dont know that wood,,
putting sinew on the reflexed one sounds like a good idea,,
keep in mind the sinew bow will need to be about double your draw,,

[stuckinthemud]

Hawthorn is equal in density with box-wood (buxus sempervirens), more or less equal in compression and in tension, classed as a first-rate bow-wood.

[bradsmith2010]

seems like you have your options,, I really like sinew bows,, and nice shooting self bows are great,,,
see if you can heat the deflexed one little past straight and that would make a nice self bow,,

[stuckinthemud]

keep in mind the sinew bow will need to be about double your draw,,

Hi Bradsmith, sorry but I don't understand- does this mean if I normally draw 30# then the bow needs to tiller to 15# before I put on a layer of sinew?  Does the sinew double the draw-weight??

[PatM]

Brad probably means the bow should be twice the length of your draw length. 24" draw  =48" bow etc.
 With heavy compression strong material and sinew  you want to limit length and mass.

[stuckinthemud]

Thanks Pat, I didn't know that but I am really enjoying the challenge of building short-bows at the moment.  How much draw weight does sinew add? I would be looking for a final draw weight of between 35 and 45#

[bradsmith2010]

thanks Pat, that is what I meant,,
bend the bow into reflex, put the sinew on,, and then tiller to the weight you want,, you will not have a problem getting the 40#s

[wizardgoat]

I've only finished 4 sinew bows, but the last couple and the ones I'm working on now I applied the sinew when the bow is braced. In case you need to make any heat corrections that would be tough to do if the sinew is already on.

[PatM]

I applied the sinew when the bow is braced.

   Re-word that so that it's not taken literally.

[wizardgoat]

Haha sorry my bad. I mean I apply the sinew when the bow is bending enough to be braced. 

[stuckinthemud]

Thanks guys, I'm going to look up some build-alongs while the stave finishes seasoning but a sinew bow looks like a fun challenge. wizardgoat - thought that was what you meant but the picture in my head of applying sinew to a strung bow did make me giggle

[loefflerchuck]

I have a English hawthorne in my yard. Cut a branch about the same diameter as yours but 54" long. Left the unbroken ring rounded back. D bow with all parts bending. Felt great at 25" but exploded at 26". The new 1-3" diameter branches feel like lighter wood than the larger ones. I want to try a self bow from a larger branch but was thinking of trying sinew for the next little one. I've heard about how bendy the wood is, but my first and only test it reminded me of big tooth maple. One broken bow doesn't mean a tree is no good. I'll see how your bow turns out. The break left my bow in many pieces and I could not tell if the break was compression or tension. 

[willie]

I am asking about bradsmiths recommendation. I do not have any experience at all with sinew backs, but I am curious as to why one might want to straighten an already  deflexed stave to use as a belly. Does it not seem that the wood is more effective the further it can bend in the deflex direction? Why train it so it has to bend more to do the job?