Arrow pass design

[DC]

Maybe overthinking again. When I've made an arrow pass I've usually sloped it up(from the archers point of view) so it kind of cupped the arrow. I got to thinking that the "cup shape" is getting in the way of the arrow when it's bending around the bow. Should the nock shape(again from the archers POV) be at least 90 degrees so the arrow can jump straight off the shelf.

[Pat B]

The shelf only holds the arrow while you draw the bow. Once released the arrow shouldn't touch the shelf or side of the bow if the arrow is properly spined. This is why many of us don't cut in a shelf but add one or go without. I usually go without but use a floppy rest to protect my bow hand.

[DC]

Thanks Pat. I use an add-on rest. I was thinking about that first split second of release when the arrow is just coming off the shelf. A cupped shelf might add something negative to the flight. Anyway I'm going to make them more than 90 degrees from now on. Just wondered if there was anything to it.

[Pat B]

Generally the shelf would be crowned with the arrow sitting on the apex.

[DC]

I'm looking from the belly, I have them crowned.

[DC]

I was making like the left, now like the right. great drawing, eh

[le0n]

this crown (radius):


having the cup would indeed interfere with the archer's paradox.

[bubbles]

As long as it's a subtle cupping of the rest it should be fine. If your nocking point is a bit above the shelf the arrow shouldn't touch the shelf in release

[Pappy]

I make most like the blue drawing above with the with the striker area of the bow window slightly rounded also so only a small section of the arrow touches bottom or side. The shelf either cut in or added on has a slight slant toward the bow so the arrow will set on it if I hang it while hunting. 
 Pappy

[Dances with squirrels]

I used to make mine angled a wee little bit, thinking it would keep the arrow from sliding off, but I always cant my bow anyhow, and thought I may have been creating an obstacle for the arrow as it does its thing... so have been making the shelf perpendicular to the side of the bow now... like the "red" bow illustration.

[George Tsoukalas]

My shelf is a piece or 2 of leather.

In the striker area, I judiciously remove wood to bring the arrow a few more degrees towards the target.

Jawge

[Selfbowman]

I am with pappy except I cut it another 1/8 or so into the strike plate.    Arvin

[Eric Krewson]

The bottom line is the more wood you have touching the arrow on an arrow pass the more likely you can torque you bow slightly on a release and throw your shot off. I radius the shelf and side plate with probably less than 1/4"  touching the arrow at any point.

[DC]

Thanks for all the input guys, I wasn't to far off base. Especial thanks to LeOn for making my drawing look like ship

[JoJoDapyro]

Thanks for all the input guys, I wasn't to far off base. Especial thanks to LeOn for making my drawing look like ship

It looks like waves, not ships.