....and I heard a loud POP. Now what?

[Selfbowman]

I use a cawl sometimes and as pappy said a hump in the back will cause this nearly every time. So i cut my cawl in half and do one limb at at time. If I have a big hump in the handle i wedge the handle and clamp it to my bench. 21/4 under handle 13/4 under mid limb 11/4 7-9" from end. Blocking and clamping as I go from fade to tip. I spend hours on that bench heating bows. Then there is that rascle
Blackhawk that builds a bow out of a  Boomerang in four hours. Not putting any heat on it. Lol Arvin

[DC]

If I have a hump or lump in the back of a bow I cut a"V" notch in the caul to accommodate it when it bends. If I get too many notches in my caul I use 5 min epoxy to glue a chunk in the notch. Rasp it smooth and I'm ready for the next one. It's one of the only times I use 5 min epoxy.

[Springbuck]

Thanks guys, seems like it's not as bad as I feared.  Badger, I'm doing my best to follow the grain, the limb edges are definitely not straight.  Thanks again.

 This isa coorrect.  It cracked because you were cranking it foreward with the heat and doing the twist removal.  Under the opposite forces, the crack would close up, and since that's the way the bow bends, it's fine.  Also if you look, the amount of wood thickness from back to crack in the bow is still a good bit thicker than the limbs.

  I would clamp it so the crack opens, get some quality glue in the, probablu epoxy, and  then unclamp it, and clamp the crack shut.

  You could shave a tiny sliver of wood and glue it in for a shim (have done myself) but since the cracked surface is uneven, I wouldn't bother.  If it was bigger or worse, I might saw in a kerf to square it up and glue in a splint, but really, why bother?