BL Sapling, Tiller check

[HighEagle]

Black Locust Sapling 61.5" ntn I just got this one shoting today still needs a little more tillering to 28in how she look

Thanks for looking Chuck
 


 
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[wizardgoat]

Looks pretty close to me Chuck, I don't have the best eye for this design, but it looks like your fades are not bending much.

[HighEagle]

I here ya Goat it had a lot of natural reflex when I started, it took a little set so I flipped the tips this what I ended up with. It is shooting good no hand shock maybe just a little. Chuck

[Pappy]

Don't look to bad but you will need to spread the stress on a BL that short if you want 28 in. draw, that is asking a lot, so I would probable get the outer bending a little more and maybe a little more at the fads,if it was a little longer or not such a long draw it would probable be good. BL is bad about fretting so you need to get all that will bend ,bending. JMO.
  Pappy

[HighEagle]

Thanks Pappy,
  This is the one I really need the help with, In the FD pic I'm pulling approx. 26.5 no signs of fretting. I did toast the belly to a light brown when I flipped the tips.

[bowandarrow473]

I'm with Pappy on this, I think the bow needs to bend just a little more in the fades and outer limbs, to prevent fretting.

[lebhuntfish]

I'm with pappy on this one too. Just a little bit in the fades. The outer third minus the last 6in ne a little bit more to. But the top needs more than the bottom one.

It looks really good though. You're very close on this one. Just a couple of scrapes here and there and you will have a sweet little shooter! Patrick

[simson]

What Pappy and the others said. You risk frets on BL with that little bending area.

[George Tsoukalas]

Looks good. If the bow was going to chrysal I think it would have by now.  Jawge

[HighEagle]

Thanks Patrick, Simson and Jawge I was all so thinking if it hadn't fretted by not it wasn't going to , But I will still take the advice I received and relive some stress this weekend, Thanks again all , Chuck

[lebhuntfish]

You're welcome chuck! Anytime! Let us know how it turns out! Patrick

[LittleBen]

Looks good. If the bow was going to chrysal I think it would have by now.  Jawge

Without seeing a front profile no one can possibly know for sure, but my gut is with George on this. I think given the unstrung profile and strung profile that you're looking pretty darn good.

[bow101]

Looks good.  Nice bend on it. 

[HighEagle]

 LittleBen this is the only front ,top, or plan view I have not the best. What do you look for that will tell you what?


 
 Thanks Chuck 

[mikekeswick]

It's to do with how front profile/width taper basically determines how the bow should be bending.
A pyramid which tapers directly from the widest point at the fades in a straight line to the tip width. should , more or less, bend the same amount along its length (maybe a fraction less right off the handle fades). Or to put it another way because it is doing all it's tapering in width it doesn't really need to taper in thickness. Thickness determines how far any given piece of wood can bend so same thickness = same 'safe' bend. This is called an 'arc of a circle' tiller.
On the other hand if you decide to keep a stave full width from the fade to near the tips this bow has to taper somewhere so it has to taper in thickness. As the limb gets thinner it can and should be bending further. This is an elliptical tiller.
This principle, when followed correctly will give you completely handshock free bows. A lot of people blame wide tips for handshock but imo incorrect tiller for the front profile is what causes a lot of handshocky bows.