my ipe tiller so far, suggestions?

[armymedic.2]

bending 19 inches @ 50lbs which is my target.  tell me what ya think --ipe backed with bamboo, mahogony handle-68"long

[Kegan]

Looks good, but as you go don't remove any more from the fades and the wood near the handle. More from the midlimb toward the tips. Give it a nice, veenn, elliptical tiller.

[1/2primitive]

Looks good, but as you go don't remove any more from the fades and the wood near the handle. More from the midlimb toward the tips. Give it a nice, veenn, elliptical tiller.

Took the words out of my mouth. 
    Sean

[Coo-wah-chobee]

 How wide is it at widest point. How wide are tips ? Some pics would help .......bob

[stiknstring]

19 inches?  Time to get her on the short string and to brace height.  You will better be able to see the actual tiller at that point.  Right now it is going to be bending more at the fades than it will when you switch.  This could trick you into removing more wood at the tips causing the thing to be whip tillered.

[Rich Saffold]

If You can't easily push/pull  string it then I wouldn't pull it this far on a loose string. The tiller will look different when strung.  I would still be floor tillering the bow at this point. I think the limbs are a bit too thick, and may need to be rounded a bit on the belly side as well..

But like Bob said, some dimensions, and a unbraced and profile pics can only help us help you..On your bow 1" wide outside the grip and 1/2" thick limbs including the bamboo is more than enough wood for 50#'s on a straight bow...

[armymedic.2]

bob, there are pics......ok, i will remove from middle and out.  sounds good.  i have it braced at 1 inch right now, so it is on a short string so to speak.  just a little shorter and i would have my full brace.  goods good...i thought i was seeing a flat spot out on right limb about 3/4 to tips, and maybe a hinge toward the handle on right limb, but maybe i have just stared at it too long since noone mentioned it.   ill post differnet pics tomorrow and demensions.  thanks guys.

[nailbender]

 Medic, I think I see the spot that you think it is hinged, I think it looks that way because of the light reflecting off of the background at that spot.
  Dale.

[Justin Snyder]

medic, I think Bob wanted to see pictures of the back of the bow so he could get an idea on the layout of the bow. An unbraced picture also. If this bow has reflex in the limbs beyond the fades the tiller could be on.  We are not trying to get a perfect arc all the time. We are trying to get the entire limb working the right amount. A reflex deflex looks like the limbs are straight from midlimb to tips at full draw, even though they are bending a lot. Nobody can tell you if that tiller is correct without knowing what the limbs look like relaxed.  Justin

[Ryano]

use a 6" straight edge on the belly while its braced, this will show you any weak or strong spots.

[Eric Krewson]

Make yourself a tillering gizmo. It will tell you every place you need to remove wood.

Here is how to make one.

http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000075

[adb]

Hey, medic
Get it to brace asap, and then go from there. Looks like you've got it far enough to brace. So far, it looks really good.

[stiknstring]

Get it to brace....I said it once several posts up and stand by what I said.  You want to get a real picture of the emerging tiller which you cannot effectively do with a long string

[Justin Snyder]

Tillering gizmos are only effective if you are tillering a perfectly circular arc.  Without seeing the relaxed profile or knowing if it has parallel limbs we don't know if that  is the correct tiller.  Justin

[Badger]

Justin, same thing i was thinking. I do like the idea of a tillering gizmo and it got me thinking about using a soft tip on one that would draw a thick lne where it was heavy contact and a thin line where it was light contact, Then you could use it for elyptical as well as full arc. Steve