Comparison between different finishes...

[Cloudfeather]

 I've read a couple threads here about different finishes for bows: poly, tru-oil, shelac, waxes, etc. I was wondering if we could get some pictures going to compare the varying looks you get from different finishes. I am currently using spray on poly and buffing over it with beeswax. Was thinking of trying my next self bow with a beeswax sealant made from beeswax, turpentine and boiled linseed oil.

 I think it would be nice to have some side by side comparisons on one thread. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

[Aaron H]

Your best bet to get the best results for comparison would be to get a piece of scrap wood (whatever wood you prefer), clean it up and then apply each of the finishes you are considering.  Otherwise you are comparing apples and carrots.

[Aaron H]

This would be a great experiment though

[Cloudfeather]

I really like the look I get from poly and beeswax, and it's waterproof. I'd kind of like to stick with something more natural though. So many options, so little time to experiment. lol

[Dakota Kid]

Define "natural".

The original formulas of lacquer and shellac were made from crushed beetle shells and distilled plant oils.

Sometime mixing two natural substances yields a product not found in nature. Are those two combined natural substances no longer natural? I always refer to something an old Druid witch told me once, "If the ancestors had superglue, epoxy, and spiderwire, they would have used it." If you're making an historically accurate reproduction, I understand choosing traditional methods. On the other hand, if functionality is your goal, use the most effective materials available.

[Drewster]

Cloudfeather, I don't think many of us on this site, myself included, have the skills or camera equipment that could accurately depict the subtle differences in various finishes......not well enough to be helpful to you anyway.  I think Falcon has a good idea.  You should take one board and try numerous finishes on it to see what you really prefer and what techniques work well for you.

Dean Torges, in his book "Hunting the Osage Bow", has directions for doing a paraffin finish.  Quite waterproof and easily repairable.  You might want to check that out.  I have used it on a hickory bendy handle bow and it's amazing how water beads up on the surface.

Good luck and have fun.

[Cloudfeather]

By "natural" I mean something that doesn't come out of a spray can from Home Depot. I really like the idea of the finish smelling of beeswax. Kind of why I was leaning that way. I saw Carson post a pic on FB of melting some earth pigments into beeswax, I guess it couldn't hurt to inquire about it.

[Dakota Kid]

There's also an old furniture finishing technique where you alternate rubbing with pumice of decreasing grit and some type of wood oil. I would imagine it would be fairly water resistant as well.

[Pat B]

There is an old finish, shellac and linseed oil, called French polish. It was considered one of the best finishes in the 1940s, 50s. Jay Massey used it on some of his bows, and he hunter wet Alaska.

[jimmi the sammi]

Subscriber from the first issue and long time lurker and Pat B you are one of the best, but Jay came up with the "Massey Finish" for a reason.  As close to waterproof as can be.  Been using it ever since he told me about it.  Just wanted to throw in my 2@ worth.  And I want to thank you all for the entertainment!!

[duke3192]

Cloudfeather, you mentioned home depot, they handle a furniture finish Howard's beeswax, it is beeswax and citrus oil and is supposed to penetrate and seal the wood.

jimmi, are refering to the epoxy and acetone finish that Massey tried to market years ago.

[Pat B]

I use Massey finish(2ton epoxy thinned with acetone) to seal hemp cordage handle wraps.

[Dakota Kid]

The french finish is what I was thinking about and referring to. I had a classmate that did quite a few church restorations while he was in Europe. He did a gun stock for my dad in exchange for some auto work. I've never seen a topcoat that thin shine so much. It looked like 10-12 coats of auto clear buffed to a high gloss.

[Pat B]

An old application recipe was once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and once a year after that.

[jimmi the sammi]

Don't know that Jay tried to market the finish that he discovered but do know that 15 to 20 coats of 2 ton epoxy mixed with acetone makes a tough easy to fix scars on bows finish.  Been using it for many years on bows and natural arrows.  To add to the discussion, been using Titebond 3 on hemp wrapped handles.  2 or 3 coats sanding in between makes a nice finish with water proof characteristics.  Massey finish over the entire bow with finished handle blends it all together.  Just what works for me.