Best Bow Design For Target Shooting- New question...

[arachnid]

Hi Guys.

Although I like experimenting different designs, I`m actually perusing a goal of making myself
a good target bow. I don`t hunt and only go out about once a week to the forest to shoot some homemade targets
and stomps. My current bow is a 40#, 66" flatbow that shoots very well. But, I want a new one and since finishing that bow
I`ve made new bows but none have been satisfying as my current shooter.

So, what would be the best design/characteristics of a good target bow?
 
Selfbow/laminted? straight/reflexed? Stiff/bendy handle?

Dor

[Del the cat]

Longish, smooth a little gentle deflex reflex at a poundage you are comfortable with, a good self bow would do, Osage, Hickory, HHB but a backed bow would prob' be quicker generally. Boo backing on heat treated Yew would my choice. Light as a feather, fast and smooth.
I'd say stiff handle...
In the UK we'd call it an American Longbow or American flat bow, an English longbow would be good too, but you don't get the arrow shelf and cut away arrow pass... mind that's not to say you can't make an English longbow with a deeper grip and a cutaway... dunno what you'd call it tho'
Del

[George Tsoukalas]

I understand. I made a bow to use this year. However, my bow from last year will be my bow for this year because I shoot it well and it seems to fit.

I think a bow that fits you is different from a bow that fits me. YOu are doing the right thing by experimenting.

Jawge

[Wooden Spring]

I make a lot of pyramid bows for a couple of reasons... They're easier to make for one, but also, we have a lot of folks shooting our bows who have never picked up a bow in their life, and the pyramid bow is really forgiving of shooting mistakes...er... you don't have to be as precise with your release as with, say, a recurve bow. They're not the fastest bows in the world, but they're consistent, and that's what you're looking for in target bows.

Lately, I've been experimenting with hard maple backed white oak, and I've been very pleased with the results so far. Both woods are cheap (since they're domestic here in Georgia), and it's easy to find good, straight pieces. My bows are 68" nock to nock (for a 27-28" draw), and I usually glue in about 3 inches of reflex, using resorcinol.

The bow that I'm working on right now is going to be my personal target bow.
It's hard maple (1/8" thick) over quarter sawn white oak
68" nock to nock
4" handle
2" fades
1-1/2" wide at the fades and then parallel for 15", then taper to 1/2" wide at the nocks.
I usually cut the thickness to a fat 5/8" thick - which is essentially floor tillered - and then take it down to its final weight on the tillering tree. This has yielded anything from 30 to 50 pound bows...

These bows shoot straight and hit HARD, and I've shot them in front of crowds out to 60 yards for demonstrations, and they are some of the smoothest (no hand shock) bows I've shot.

[arachnid]

Del:
Thanks for the suggestion. I've been thinking of a classic R/D BBI for quite some time... that might be IT...

George:
Of course a bow has to fit the archer, that I know. I just like to hear from the experts (that includes YOU  ... what's your best target bow design?).


Wooden spring:
I too like pyramid bows. My current is a white oak backed ipe pyramid.
Maple backed white oak sounds interesting... I'll have to try that one day, assuming I can find a good enough maple board (not so common here...).

Keep those suggestuon coming...

[BrokenArrow]

Experiment and you will have to find out,as for me it is not about the best bow but the type and style that suit you.
I began making laminate bows and realized that I needed something more real so I turned to the self bow which is where I will stay as I have no plans to ever make laminates again.
I have made English yew longbows on one end and  a 45 inch re curved sinew backed osage bow at the other.
In my view there is no comparison between a recurved osage bow and an English longbow, osage hands down.
I have arrived for me at a 54-56 inch osage recurve or a sinewed backed osage recurve between 46 and 50 inches.
Good luck as you figure it out.

[George Tsoukalas]

Well thank you. Arachnid, what I meant was we all have a different style of shooting. I shoot quickly. I draw fast and when I hit anchor, the arrow is gone. So I need a longer bow to make it smooth drawing all the way back with no stacking.

For my  26" draw, that means 64-66" long.

Other than that there is no prerequisite.

Same for hunting.

Jawge

[PEARL DRUMS]

Im 100% a hunter. Its why I build bows, the only reason. That being said a perfect target bow is a perfect hunting bow for me. If I didn't hunt Id probably stick with longer, lighter drawing bows made of yew that are easy to shoot and can be shot 75 times without fatigue. Yew because its light to carry around and draws so smooth.

[vinemaplebows]

Im 100% a hunter. Its why I build bows, the only reason. That being said a perfect target bow is a perfect hunting bow for me. If I didn't hunt Id probably stick with longer, lighter drawing bows made of yew that are easy to shoot and can be shot 75 times without fatigue. Yew because its light to carry around and draws so smooth.

"only reason" YA...

[bradsmith2010]

well you might experiment with going a bit longer(string angle and smooth draw)( you can always make it shorter) a narrow handle,,,with the right arrows and well tillered,, it becomes apples to oranges,,, I have a flat limb,, narrow handle black locust, 69 nock to nock,, very little set ,, and was my target bow for many years,, that is what worked great for me,, I draw that bow 28 inches,,, my hunting bows vary in draw

[Badger]

  For 3-d shooting I prefer a bow between 64" and 67" long  I have a 26 1/2" draw. For target or 3 d I would also go lighter than a hunting bow, I shoot about 50 to 55 normally but I would drop to 45# if I were more serious about target or 3d shooting.

[arachnid]

Has anyone tried bamboo backed mulberry?
 I have 2 mulberry billets but no drawknife to chase a ring so I figured I can flatten the crown and back it with bamboo/white oak. I might even split each billet and make 2 backed bows (if I'll have enough width).

[mikekeswick]

The bow doesn't matter if you ask me (as long as it's over say 64), much, much more important is getting the weight dead on for yourself. I'm the same as Badger I like to shoot 50 -60# but for 3D comps etc i'll drop to 43 - 45# for pure accuracy. I won a few things shooting 65# back a year or two but excess weight is the worst thing when it comes to accuracy.

[Joec123able]

I think it simply ,like most things, comes down to preference. There is no best design.

[arachnid]

As I said, I think I`ll go for a classic BBI R/D longbow. I had an R/D white oak backed ipe a year ago and I loved it (until it broke due to overdrawing... ).

Question- What front profile would you recommend for a R/D BBI, 68" long?
I really pyramid limbs, easier to rough out and tiller. But if a parallel 2/3 is better prefoming
on such a bow, I`ll go for it.

What are the pros and cons?