62" Elm Static FD pg2

[PatM]

Still looks like the upper needs to come around more.  I would focus more on balancing it and exercising it  back to your full draw even if the weight is looking too high and then drop the weight as needed with width reduction.
 If you get it just right and still have to drop the weight  you run more of a risk of throwing it out of tiller by re-scraping the whole limbs.
 The extra width allows you to bypass the never pulling it over target weight rule.

[mikekeswick]

Looking better but it's still that upper inner to mid limb.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Mike nailed it. Id suggest staying away from that last 12" of limb on each. You don't want soft tips on a static, it will jar your teeth free.

[Emmet]

To me it looks darn near perfect for having a shorter limb on the bottom.
Removing some from the mid limb on top would give more limb travel  on the top limb giving some nock travel.
If I'm looking at the limb timing how can it shoot better by increasing top limb travel?

[PatM]

Because it will tip the handle forward a hair which will still leave the limb in the same position. See how the handle is leaning back a bit if you flip the pic vertically? Better to have it straight or a tiny bit forward.

[bubbles]

Ok, I've straightened it out and  thrown some lines on:


I think I may have had a few misconceptions - I've been tillering so the handle sits straight up and down at FD and the top limb comes a little bit further back than the bottom, using the straight handle back as a reference.  I also try to have my arrow sit close to horizontal - the elastic draw check on the arrow bump it up a bit when it hits my hand, but the arrow is pretty close.   Making the top limb work more would make that arrow sit a bit lower would it not?   Should I be shooting for a bit more of an upward angle on the arrow?

I also thought with statics you could be more judicious with outer limb movement because they keep the string angle optimal throughout the draw.  I guess I got carried away. 

[Marc St Louis]

You  always want more limb travel where there is more working wood.  If you make the outer limbs work too much they will chrysal especially with your limb profile, if not right away then over time. 

The tiller looks better but you still need to get the inner limb working a bit more on the top limb, more so near the fade now

[mikekeswick]

Agreed. Just a smidge more and you're good to go! Make sure you are exercising it a lot now and also shoot some arrows at your tillered to drawlength, try to get a feel for any handshock there may be -it should disappear when the limbs are well balanced.

[bubbles]

Allright, here it is at 23", it's 53# there.  I've been working the fades quite a bit, even took out the rasp and moved them in towards the handle a bit.  They were more like 3" fades than 2" fades.   Also gave the top limb a bit more bend.   The top limb is taking a bit more set, so I'm wondering if I took it a bit too far.   It shoots at 23" with very little shock, so It can't be far off.   Let me know your opinions.

[Chief RID]

What do you do now? That looks about perfect to me. That is a really sweet looking bow. I bet the chrony will like it to.

[bubbles]

Well, here it is a my FD.  54#@26"
Top limb took about 1" of set, bottom limb 3/4".  Single heat treatment with 1" of reflex added. 
FD

Unbraced.

Braced:

Shoots really nice. Hardly feels like 54#.  I think I have to lighten the point weight on my arrows to make 'em spine right for this bow as it shoots  harder  than my straight limb 50-55#'s.   
What do you guys think? Any suggestions for peaking and tweaking?

[Badger]

  That came out great, any time you come out with 1" or less of set you are doing something right.

[paco664]

that is a nice looking bow!! congrats

[sieddy]

That looks right on the money! 

[Marc St Louis]

Very well done