62" Elm Static FD pg2

[bubbles]

Hi everyone,  I picked up a sweet, pipe straight elm stave from PatM and I'm attempting my first Stave static.  Shooting for 50#@26".   Right now it is at 50#@20", full brace.  Been through 1 heat treatment. 
What does everybody think so far? I'm working this one slow, as I want to get it right.   The bottom working limb is 1" shorter (I've been on an asymmetrical kick lately) and the limbs are 2.25" wide at the fade, tapering to 2" at mid-limb, tapering from mid-limb to tip.  I'm observing some set happening around mid-limb, and I'm fighting a bit of limb twist, as usual.    I'm thinking the top fade needs to come around a bit more

[PEARL DRUMS]

I like the bottom and I think the top fade is a tad stiff.

Nice hooks by the way!

[Pat B]

I agree with Pearlie. Also it looks like the outer half of the bottom limb has a twist. Check the thickness of both sides if that limb for uneven thickness. 

[Chief RID]

I think it is looking great. The masters have spoken and you are well on your way with that elm bow. I really like the lines and the handle area. Can't wait to see it come to full weight and draw. Heck, it looks finished and ready to go now. Good job Bubbles!

[PatM]

I like the looks of that. I do think the top needs to come round a bit more.
 Was the stave as clean as it appeared to be? Did you reflex it while you were heat treating?

[sieddy]

Hey Bubbles that is a sweet looking bow it hope it comes out like you planned. I'm just debarking a 61" Elm stave (which is looking ok so far!) and so I will be returning to look at your pictures frequently!

[bubbles]

Sweet sieddy, let us know how it goes. 

PatM - Yep, it's pretty flawless. there are a few tiny pin knots distributed through the top and bottom limbs.   I only reflexed it 1".  I waited until some set started to show up and then I heated it back a little past straight.   I didn't want to go too crazy with the heated in reflex. 

I'll work on those fades a bit.  I was unsure of just when I should start attacking them to get them to come around. 

[PEARL DRUMS]

Gorgeous grain run out, gotta be even side to side to look that nice.

[PatM]

You certainly have a lot of width there to get the bend working right up to the handle.  You can get most of your extra work out of there.
 Probably best to go for about 2-3 inches of cooked in reflex  to ensure ending up with a straight profile.

[mikekeswick]

I personally would narrow it to somewhere around 1 7/8 or so. " 1/4 is too wide for your intended weight. At least if your elm works like ours over here. I've made quite a few bows just like yours at higher weights and never needed a full 2 inch width.
That top fade needs some attention. Be very careful with that outer limb - do not touch! Removing inner limb width will help this problem too.

[Pappy]

That's looking good, I would probably go with Mikes advice to get the fads moving a bit and you should be there. Nice work.
   Pappy

[bubbles]

Im erring a bit on the side of caution with the width, As this was one of my first stave  recurve.  Perhaps on the next one I'll go narrower. After i get this one in the bag. 

[PatM]

The extra width will stand you in good stead when I come over and haul it back to 32" to test your workmanship. 

[Marc St Louis]

I made a lot of static recurves like that years ago.  I kept limb width to about 1 3/4", I would also heat in about 10" of reflex on some of them.  I agree with what others say about the tiller, get the inner limbs working more especially the top limb.  Keep the belly flat

[bubbles]

Here's the update - This is 51#@21" - looking a little better? Taken a lot of scrapes off those fades.