Re: Need Help with an Osage Bow(Finished Bow with Pics)

[rps3]

Looks like you have a fine bow in the works and have a couple of options for the right tip...leave it or try to straighten, I think you could make either work. I would leave it. That funky tip reminds me of a hybrid glass bow a bowyer was making years ago. It was really a recurve, but had that deflex at the end so the string didn't touch the limb and could be shot in the longbow class. I forget his name, but I think he broke away from his dad in the bow business and went out on his own. I think he was from pa.

[Springbuck]

Stringman is right.  I'd boil or steam it to bend it.

.I still say reduce it all you can, but make yourself a good form and maybe figure a way to steam it, clamp it and cinch it up. Then return it to the steam and let it relax, then cinch it.  Osage likes to bend nicely when warmed up well, despite it's hardness and toughness, in my small experience.  If it's not too thick it'll go like rubber.

I have best success dry heat treating in the form once the steam bending is accomplished.  I always do big bends with wet heat.

[Drewster]

With all the great help from you experienced Osage bowyers, I felt more confident to proceed with this bow.  SO, I did some floor tillering and thinned the tips down getting them ready to flip.  I needed to get the propeller twist out first, so here my set-up for that process.  The darker orange area in the center of the limb is oiled so the wood wouldn't scorch.  That is also the area that was twisted.



And, it looks like it worked pretty well.   I have a little crook in the near limb, but I'm pretty sure that will not be an issue when I do a final trim of the limb width and taper it for the tip.



I have the tips a fairly uniform 9/16".  Is that thin enough to steam and bend the tips?
Form building time.

[lebhuntfish]

I'm not really sure about the 9/16th part. Sounds a little thick but that's the part I always screw up on. I tend to bend them when I'm ready to. I did learn the hard way to get them to one ring on the belly with an even thickness. Not much help but someone else may have better advice.
Looks like you are heading towards an awesome little bow though! Patrick

[NonBacked]

Drew,

You’re doing a great job with that stick – slow and patient. Nice work correcting that twist on the first try, too.

From the picture of your limb clamping setup, it looks like you applied heat to the "back" of your bow. You could achieve the same results by heating the “belly” side, with less chance of damaging the limb integrity (possibility of longitudinal cracks and/or scorching - even with the oil). Also, most of the surface coloration (burnt wood) would be removed during the tillering.

I’m making this suggestion because the crook in the same limb will require a longer duration of heat if you decide to straighten that section.

It looks like it’s going to be a jam-up shooter you’ll be proud of…good luck!

H

[Sidewinder]

That is some mighty fat ringed stuff. Must have had good water.
 
You can definitely get 29 1/2 out of 64". I have gotten 29 out of 62" on a number of occasions. I know what the safe ratio is : draw length x 2 plus 10%, but THIS IS OSAGE wer'e talking about. I like Clints idea about trimming the one tip down and then matching the other. Its called taking what the stave is given ya. You'll be alright. Looks like you got the splice work done pretty well, good job. If you still have 9/16 thickness theres some more meat can come off the bone.

[mikekeswick]

Anybody see the lunar rings on that first page?

[Dances with squirrels]

Yep. I'm not 100% sold on the notion that they're attributed to any interaction with the moon though.

I have never once put oil on a stave to make heat corrections, and generally have no discoloration either. I heat all the way around the stave and move fast enough and/or maintain enough distance to eliminate any chance of scorching.

[Drewster]

NonBacked, thanks for your feedback.  That is the back that's up.  The handle is clamped in the vise so you can't see it.  I heated the top and bottom of that section I needed to twist.  I wanted it heated completely through to minimize any chance of cracking.  It seems to have worked this time.  I'm pretty sure I can clean up the limb profile without heating that crook......especially when I taper the tip.

Sidewinder, should I reduce the tips to 1/2" thick, or go a bit thinner?  One bowyer suggested I taper the tips to a heavy 1" before I steam them to make it easier to control and bend.  Here's a pic of the splice.  I've had quite a bit of practice with doing splices recently with hickory billets.

[Sidewinder]

I would say make your correction at that thickness and the reduce to floor tiller from there. It doesnt take much osage to make a hunting weight bow.

[Drewster]

Making some progress.  I flipped the tips today.  The right limb is the one that had the funky twisted end.  One side of the bend has a little more radius than the other but I don't think it'll be a problem.  The left limb has more reflex than I thought.  I should be able to make that work too.



Thanks again for all the suggestions and coaching.

[lebhuntfish]

Looking good! That funky tip turned out nice.
If I was building this one, I would try to even things up a bit. Limb reflex and the tips. Just me though. Can't wait for the rest of the bow! Good luck, Patrick

[Drewster]

Patrick, would you add reflex to the right limb and re-steam the left tip?  Dry heat or steam to add reflex to the right limb?  Thanks for the feedback.

[lebhuntfish]

I would add the reflex to the right limb just to match what you have in the left. I tend to use dry heat for reflex. As far as the tips go I would personally make them match for sure. I can't give you a stead fast reason but I've tried to leave some off a bit and ended up making them match because the tiller was wonky. I haven't tried boiling them yet but I've read that is a good way to do it . I'm  planning to boil my next ones. I think steam would be a great way to get them evened up. JMHO Patrick 

[Drewster]

After some delay due to my wife's health, I've finally been able to work on Big Ossie again.  I got her floor tillered and here's an unbraced view.





And braced at about 3".  Looks like I'm stiff mid limb on the right.  I think the left side is going to be my top limb.  The bottom limb on the right had the natural curve and curl before I flipped the tips.  It has a different profile than the left tip.  The left tip isn't curved as much and I'm wondering if I should re-steam it to get it closer to the bottom tip or just not worry about it at this point?



This pic is at 17" draw and 45#.  Thanks for your advice and honest critiques.