Wow, we are all over the place this time on suggestions. Jooter, remember this is all based on our preferences as well as experiences. So, let me throw my my confusing suggestions into the mix.
I think you need more wood working. I would ditch the pyramid front profile, and leave the bow full width (2", right?) for at least half way the limb length, maybe 2/3. I would shorten the fades to 2" long. I would heat treat it about halfway through tillering. I would not reflex the whole thing with heat, but I would flip the tips forward into semi-recurves, maybe 5-6" long and 1-1/2" forward.
I would expect a bow that short to take some set, so when it starts to, stop right there and do the heat treatment to freeze set in it's tracks IN THAT BARELY "SET" POSITION , and do the recurves to improve string tension at brace.
The wider, more parallel limb profile will get a lot more wood working. Wider wood everywhere means thinner wood everywhere, thinner wood bends more without breaking, and the bow is so short you won't have a limb-weight problem. Also, the flipped tips will allow a thinner overall limb thickness, and less thickness taper. The last few inches of limb rarely do a lot of work anyway, and 15 degree recurves are not tricky to make, nor unstable.
Good luck, whatever you do.
