Author Topic: Snake skin  (Read 8133 times)

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Offline Billbob

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Snake skin
« on: January 31, 2015, 09:16:34 pm »
Santa brought me a python snake skin. :D I never backed a bow before. It's 8 feet long and about 6.5" wide. It's tanned and still has scales. I usually use hickory,  but was thinking of trying a different wood like Osage. What would be the best way to lay this skin out that I don't waste it but have the pattern look right?  Does it matter that it's tanned and do you need to remove the scales?

Offline Billbob

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Re: Snake skin
« Reply #1 on: January 31, 2015, 09:38:20 pm »
Here's what the skin looks like.

Stringman

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Re: Snake skin
« Reply #2 on: January 31, 2015, 10:51:51 pm »
Tanned snake skin is not the best thing to use for a bow backing.

Offline sleek

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Re: Snake skin
« Reply #3 on: February 01, 2015, 12:22:24 am »
I would prefer raw skin but cant thinknof a reason not to use tanned skin? Its so thin anyway it doesnt add anything but looks.
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Offline bubby

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Re: Snake skin
« Reply #4 on: February 01, 2015, 01:24:19 am »
Python is probably thicker than a rattler but I'd use it if i had it
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
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Offline dbb

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Re: Snake skin
« Reply #5 on: February 01, 2015, 07:10:31 am »
I would make a bowcase or a quiver out of that and get a raw skin for the bow.
Very pretty skin btw :)
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Offline Will H

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Re: Snake skin
« Reply #6 on: February 01, 2015, 07:21:26 am »
I agree with adb. Don't put that on your bow. I've had bad luck with tanned skins staying on a bow long term. You can de grease them and put them on like usual but there is no guarantee they will stay put.
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Offline Billbob

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Re: Snake skin
« Reply #7 on: February 01, 2015, 09:43:58 am »
I was afraid that it being tanned would be an issue.  :(

Offline lebhuntfish

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Re: Snake skin
« Reply #8 on: February 01, 2015, 03:03:04 pm »
Well as far as the tanned skin goes. I agree that a air dried skin would be easier and better. But I'm a pore/cheap Bowyer. I've used tanned skins almost every time I put them on a bow. The thing about them are, you have to do a little more work when putting them on. First of all, take some tape or something sticky and remove as much of the "tanned" part on the back that is loose and will come off. That step is important, if you don't, it will peal right off like velcro after its glued to your bow.

Next, before your ready to apply the skins, most people soak them in water. DON'T DO THAT with a tanned skin. I take a damp wrap and wipe down the tanned side while applying a little pressure. This softens the skin a little and finishes removing any loose pieces. Then I let the skin dry.

Next, I take the skin a "flex" it around to make sure that the water didn't make any stiff areas in it. I will sometimes use the tape again just to be certain that all the loose particles are gone.

Now you are ready to figure out your pattern on your bow that you want. You can cut the skin down a bit. But leave it with enough that you have some room for adjustment.

When your ready and you have test fitted your skin. Prep the back of your bow for gluing. I use PatB's method. Wash the back with dawn dish soap and rinse with boiling water. I use tight bond 3 to apply the skin. First apply a thin coat of glue to both the bow and the skin to "size" them. The skin will such up a good bit of the glue. Be sure to get the glue on every part of the surface that you want the skin to be glued to. Do your best not to get glue on the wrong side of the skin.

Once the glue has dried to a very tacky state. Apply a fair layer of glue to both pieces and carefully apply the skin to the back.

Work from the handle to the tip pressing and smoothing out any air bubbles and clumps of glue. Keep doing this till you have a nice smooth application. Then repeat for the other side. 

It's a good idea to clean up any excess glue before it starts to set up. Also don't move the skin after it is tacky. This will screw up the adhesion.

I let mine set for about a week in a dry warm location. Then I use the smooth side of my farriers rasp at a downward angle to "file"  off and clean up the edges. Always work from the back to the belly at a slight angle. I also use a card scraper to clean up only the glue on the edges of the bow. You will know if the glue is cured, if it scrapes like wood. If not set it up for a few more days. I also us a sanding block to help clean up the edges.

I have never had a tanned skin come loose with this process. One of them on a bow has probably been shot 2000 times. Hope this helps.

P.S. Nice skin, if you don't want it you could send it to me!  :laugh: Patrick
Once an Eagle Scout, always an Eagle Scout!

Missouri, where all the best wood is! Well maybe not the straightest!

Building a bow has been the most rewarding, peaceful, and frustrating things I have ever made with my own two hands!

Offline Billbob

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Re: Snake skin
« Reply #9 on: February 01, 2015, 06:21:37 pm »
Lol..thanks for the help. I thought my biggest problem would be wasting all the skin by centering the skin on the bow. Looks like it will be a little extra work, but it looks like I can use it. Now I just need to make a bow to use it on.

Offline lebhuntfish

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Re: Snake skin
« Reply #10 on: February 01, 2015, 06:27:18 pm »
Lol, you can center the design on a bow as well. Just glue it on down the center. Then when it's dry use a razor knife to trim it off. Just be careful with the glue. Good luck with the bow. Here you are doing the finish work before you even have it shooting!  :laugh: Patrick
Once an Eagle Scout, always an Eagle Scout!

Missouri, where all the best wood is! Well maybe not the straightest!

Building a bow has been the most rewarding, peaceful, and frustrating things I have ever made with my own two hands!

Offline Billbob

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Re: Snake skin
« Reply #11 on: February 02, 2015, 10:42:52 am »
:) I know I might be jumping the gun a little bit.  Trying to decide if I want to try my hand at making a bow from something other than hickory. Living in south central PA, I have trouble keeping hickory dry.  Maybe get some osage.  Have some black locust in the barn I might try. Since my Dad gave me that skin, I was hoping I could use it.

Offline lebhuntfish

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Re: Snake skin
« Reply #12 on: February 02, 2015, 10:49:02 am »
I would love to have some black locust. And it would look awesome with that skin on it.

Well don't send it to me if your dad gave it to you. Maybe put it on a bow and tribute it to him. Patrick
Once an Eagle Scout, always an Eagle Scout!

Missouri, where all the best wood is! Well maybe not the straightest!

Building a bow has been the most rewarding, peaceful, and frustrating things I have ever made with my own two hands!

Offline Pat B

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Re: Snake skin
« Reply #13 on: February 02, 2015, 10:55:54 am »
I've used tanned skins once or twice and the problems I had was the tanned skin is like a sponge and will hold too much glue and moisture. This will give it extra physical weight which can slow the recovery of the limbs, reducing cast.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

gutpile

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Re: Snake skin
« Reply #14 on: February 02, 2015, 11:11:23 am »
I have a tanned rattler on a bow ...looks awesome no issues..but a python is too thick IMO...tanning thickens skin even more since the solution soaks in skin and swells it some...what I had to do to mine was soak in hot water with dawn dishwashing liquid till it cools...them rinse really well and tack out to dry as if a fresh skin...seemed to remove that tanning process but the skin if it had scales are gonna be there for good...gut