Author Topic: Getting Close on a Bandsaw  (Read 7136 times)

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Offline Comancheria

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Getting Close on a Bandsaw
« on: January 16, 2015, 03:00:42 pm »
Folks,

I can now say I have read just about everything available on the subject--on this and other sites, and am close to pulling the trigger.  The bandsaws I am looking at generally are far more saw than I think I would need for cutting out board bows or reducing quarters to staves--and the reason for this has nothing to do with bow making: specifically, I may want to resaw green logs 4-10 feet long and 6-12 inches thick for green lumber--thus the possibility I will build in some overkill.

But before I make the final decision, I wanted to check in with all of you to see what YOU use your BS for--specifically for bowyering:

Cutting out board bows?

Ripping unsplit logs into halves and quarters?

Roughing out halves and/or quarters into staves that are getting very close to final bow shape?

Other uses not listed?

Also, am I correct that the majority of work on the bandsaw (again, for bowyering) is done freehand?

And finally, for YOUR uses, what blade width/brand/no of teeth per inch do you use as your go-to blade?

Thanks all,

Russ
When sinew-backed Live Oak flatbows with Agave-fiber strings shooting arrows made from river cane are outlawed, only outlaws will have sinew-backed Live Oak flatbows with Agave-fiber strings shooting arrows made from river cane!

Offline Del the cat

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Re: Getting Close on a Bandsaw
« Reply #1 on: January 16, 2015, 03:06:22 pm »
I find endless "honey do"s :-* are much easier if you have a bandsaw...
Honey can we have a hardwood floor in the sun lounge.... bandsaw to the rescue! :laugh:
Del
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Offline TimBo

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Re: Getting Close on a Bandsaw
« Reply #2 on: January 16, 2015, 03:10:28 pm »
For resaw work, you will need a LOT of power, and probably a different blade than most people use for general bow stuff.  It sounds like you know that already, but I just about blew mine up resawing some 6X stock, before I realized how hard it is on the machine.  I use my bandsaw (old Craftsman 14", 1/2HP I think, Grizzly blade, 4TPI) for roughing out bows, cleaning up staves, a whole bunch of general stuff, sometimes trying to "split" a stave if it is a bit small to risk splitting by hand, and also cutting arrows from lumber stock (hickory and Douglas fir).  I do use the guide for the arrows.

Offline Comancheria

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Re: Getting Close on a Bandsaw
« Reply #3 on: January 16, 2015, 03:12:58 pm »
Del,

On honey do s involving machinery, I can always plead incompetence.  Not much on home improvements anyway--My first wife asked me in 1967 if we could have a second bathroom.  I replied, "how many toilets can you sit on at one time?"😀
When sinew-backed Live Oak flatbows with Agave-fiber strings shooting arrows made from river cane are outlawed, only outlaws will have sinew-backed Live Oak flatbows with Agave-fiber strings shooting arrows made from river cane!

Offline Drewster

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Re: Getting Close on a Bandsaw
« Reply #4 on: January 16, 2015, 06:15:22 pm »
I have a Delta 14" with a 1 1/2" hp motor.  I purchased it used and it has worked great for my bow making and many other jobs in the shop.  Wish I had bought one 20 years ago.  I use a 1/2" 3Tooth blade nearly all the time.   It works very well for ripping, and yes, most of your work will be freehand unless you start sawing veneers to do laminated bows.  Typically, the older machines will be a bit better quality.  Keep looking til you find the correct one.......it'll talk to you and let you know you've found the ideal one.    Happy hunting.
Drew - Boone, NC

Offline Comancheria

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Re: Getting Close on a Bandsaw
« Reply #5 on: January 16, 2015, 10:10:10 pm »
Thanks.  And yes, Timbo, I hear you on needing lots of power for re-sawing, and a really good blade is even more important.  Basically, my resawing of logs amounts to using the saw as a miniature sawmill.  It is my understanding that you need a good wide set on the teeth to keep the cut open while chewing through thick, green hardwood.

Drew: I have a great deal of respect for the folks on a previous thread of mine who basically took the position that all Asian saws are junk.  I hung around a site dealing with old machinery--enough to realize that while I COULD learn to rebuild and maintain a "classic", I really do not need to take on still another hobby.  So the two saws  I am most likely down to are as follows:

Laguna 14-Twelve, 1.75 HP, 110 V, with a resaw capacity of 13 inches.
Max blade width=3/4 inch.

Laguna 14-SUV, 3 HP, 220V, with nearly 14 inches of Resaw. Max blade width=1 inch.

Both are excellent 14 inch saws, but the second machine is far more massive and probably the only 14 inch saw capable of tensioning a one-inch blade.  With either saw, I would plan on using a Resaw King carbide tip blade for lumbering and say, a 3/8 inch for general bow work.

Russ
When sinew-backed Live Oak flatbows with Agave-fiber strings shooting arrows made from river cane are outlawed, only outlaws will have sinew-backed Live Oak flatbows with Agave-fiber strings shooting arrows made from river cane!

Offline Jim Davis

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Re: Getting Close on a Bandsaw
« Reply #6 on: January 16, 2015, 11:42:06 pm »
I have nothing to say.
Jim Davis

Kentucky--formerly Maine

Offline scp

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Re: Getting Close on a Bandsaw
« Reply #7 on: January 17, 2015, 12:38:29 am »
Unless you are planning to make several bows a day, you would be better off splitting logs and using a hobby band saw on split staves. My 10" band saw is more than enough and I made more than 50 bows from hand split staves. I just cannot imagine a "primitive" bow from resawn boards.

Offline Comancheria

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Re: Getting Close on a Bandsaw
« Reply #8 on: January 17, 2015, 12:50:32 am »
Understood, sco.  As I said, the overkill would have nothing to do with building bows.

Thank you, asharrow.

Russ
When sinew-backed Live Oak flatbows with Agave-fiber strings shooting arrows made from river cane are outlawed, only outlaws will have sinew-backed Live Oak flatbows with Agave-fiber strings shooting arrows made from river cane!

Offline JoJoDapyro

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Re: Getting Close on a Bandsaw
« Reply #9 on: January 17, 2015, 09:13:13 am »
I'll hit you up from the "Cheap" side. My band saw is a 12 inch craftsman, with a 3/4 HP motor. I have been running Bosch blades from lowes ($8). Thus far I have had zero luck with 1/2 4 TPI Bosch blades. I have broken 3 in about 10 hours cutting time (2 on the weld, one mid band). They lose their edge quickly. I changed the last broken blade to a 1/4 inch 4 TPI bosch the other night, and it melts through wood.
Just my 2 cents. I am going to buy a timber wolf from wood craft, but I have to order it in.
If you always do what you always did you'll always get what you always got.
27 inch draw, right handed. Bow building and Knapping.

Offline bubby

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Re: Getting Close on a Bandsaw
« Reply #10 on: January 17, 2015, 12:49:50 pm »
I don't know joe i have a bosch blade on mine half wide and it works great melts through osage locust and even did fine on purpleheart although i didn't rip the ph, and i cut my lams on a tablesaw
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹

Offline Del the cat

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Re: Getting Close on a Bandsaw
« Reply #11 on: January 17, 2015, 01:47:44 pm »
I have nothing to say.
+1
Me neither  ::) :laugh:
Del
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Offline Comancheria

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Re: Getting Close on a Bandsaw
« Reply #12 on: January 17, 2015, 05:29:57 pm »
So Del, scp, jojo, and Bubby:

How would you each characterize the majority of your bandsaw use (for now making)?  Is it pretty light work?  What HP are your machines, and do you mostly freehand your cuts?
When sinew-backed Live Oak flatbows with Agave-fiber strings shooting arrows made from river cane are outlawed, only outlaws will have sinew-backed Live Oak flatbows with Agave-fiber strings shooting arrows made from river cane!

Offline Hamish

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Re: Getting Close on a Bandsaw
« Reply #13 on: January 17, 2015, 07:22:07 pm »
I have had a Laguna SUV for about 2 years now, I used to have a cheap Chinese 1 hp or 1.5 hp. The difference is like day and night. The Laguna will do just about anything you can think of, bow related or not, and I wish I had it from the get go. A good quality saw will have extra horse power, and equally importantly heavier wheels, which also help to power the blade through deep cuts, or dense timber. Sure a cheap bandsaw will eventually do what you want, if you are cutting 1" thick boards, but they waste too much time and effort if you need to break a thick board into belly slats, or do any amount of volume.
I would recommend anyone who is serious about bows/woodworking to get a decent quality saw  from the start. If not stay with handtools, pay someone else to cut up your wood, or get a cheap second hand one.
    Hamish

Offline duke3192

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Re: Getting Close on a Bandsaw
« Reply #14 on: January 17, 2015, 08:27:27 pm »
For quality band saw blades go to, bandsawblades,inc.com. They will cost about twice what Lowes or Home Depot blades do, they will last four times as long. They do custom orders also.
charter member of traditional bow hunters of Florida.