Getting ready to Tiller--3 Questions

[Comancheria]

Bow questions:

I am working on this first bow and am nearing the point of putting it on the long string for tillering.  I know that a tillering tree would be best, but right now, I have only a tillering stick and NO scale. 

The bow will be unbacked and 70" long, NTN, is from a 72" red oak board with a handle 3/4" thick and the rest of the bow, right now, at about a uniform 5/8 inch.  The handle is 7" long from where one fade levels off with the belly--to the same spot on the other limb.  It is a pyramid, tapering from 1.5" wide at the fades to .5" at the tips.  I am hoping for around 50# @ 28", but right now am going to let the bow end up tillered and worry about pull later.

First question relates to calibrating and reading the tillering stick.  When I tell people so many inches of draw, I want to describe things the way other people on this forum do.  The bottom of the yoke is exactly 3 inches from the first string slot.  How do I label that slot?  1 inch? 3 inches?  Do folks on this board typically refer to AMO draw length or to True draw length?

Second question:  not certain where I saw it, but I have read that I should round off the edges of the back of the bow, to a radius about that of a pea--do you folks agree with that?

Third question: Right now, I have only a fast-flight long tillering string from 3-Rivers--2'with what looks like a standard loop on one end and the other end intended for a timber hitch. I am not ready yet to build my own string.  So would it be safe to continue to use this FF string as the final bow string--at full draw--for shooting, until I can order a Dacron string of proper length?

I apologize for the length of this post but wanted to keep down the number of threads as I pose my many questions.  My thanks.

Russ

[wizardgoat]

The back of your bow, to the crotch of your nock is draw length.
however your tree is set up, or a deep stiff handle compared to a thinner
bendy handle will change that length, so I use a small block for me bendy handles when I want an accurate draw length/weight measurement.
Yes, all edges should be rounded to prevent splinters.
that string should be fine, but I really think string making should be in conjunction with bow making. Once you learn its like tieing a shoe, and much cheapet and quicker than ordering online

[JacksonCash]

I second the string making - bite the bullet and learn it. My brother-in-law didn't learn and ended up using some fishing line, which was stretchy and awful. Don't be like my brother in law. The two of us spent the day after thanksgiving making strings for his bows, my nephews bow, and my bows- it was a heck of a lot of fun.

[DC]

It's easy to do. Can be a little tough on arthritic hands. Do a google search on "Flemish Twist". A $40 roll of string will make all the strings you need. And you can do it in your recliner

[Comancheria]

Thanks, Wizardgoat, for answering my questions.

And guys, I thank you for your encouragement with regard to string making, and I assure you I fully intend to twist my own--eventually outbid sinew.  But right now I don't want to delay final tillering and shooting while ordering materials and learning the process. 

I also will end up making my own arrows, and have cane and Youpon drying in the garage--but for this first effort, this self bow--if it survives tillering--will be launching Gold Tip carbon!  Thanks again for the help and encouragement.

Best regards,

Russ

[Pat B]

Russ, a tiller tree is as simple as nailing a piece of 2x4 to a post(for the bow to rest on) and adding a pulley about 4' below that, and a piece of rope. I like standing about 6' away from the tiller tree so about 10' of 1/4" nylon rope should get you there.

[JacksonCash]

Also, for a scale- I just use a fishing scale tied to the string I'm pulling. Only works for lighter weight bows, as the thing tops out at 50lbs.

[George Tsoukalas]

Sam's got some great string building info on his site.
http://poorfolkbows.com/
For the long string I just use sash cord.
My site has some info and buildalongs.
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/index.html
I also recommend a rope and pulley.
Jawge

[DarkSoul]

The bow will be unbacked and 70" long, NTN, is from a 72" red oak board with a handle 3/4" thick and the rest of the bow, right now, at about a uniform 5/8 inch.  The handle is 7" long from where one fade levels off with the belly--to the same spot on the other limb.  It is a pyramid, tapering from 1.5" wide at the fades to .5" at the tips.  I am hoping for around 50# @ 28"
(...)

This is a perfectly fine lay-out. But you should be warned that there has to be some thickness taper. A pyramid bow starting at 1½" wide will not result in an even thickness throughout the limbs. Taper the limbs about 1/8" to start with. So 7/8" at the handle, tapering evenly to 5/8" tips. Proceed tillering from there.

[bubby]

Your thinking TOO much,  just relax and take your time, don't work on it when you're in a rush or a bad mood, bad things happen then, now I'm gonna disagree with darksoul, get the limbs floor tillered to where they bend several inches, start with a even taper like you have, by the time your finished tillering you will have a slight thickness taper the length of the limbs but I always start with a even taper, good luck brother ask lots of?,'s when you need to and have fun

[bushboy]

Yes I agree that all sharp edges should be well rounded and the back sanded smooth! I start with 120 grit plumbers sand cloth working it like a shoe polishing then 180 grit to smooth out any saw marks.then I wet the back with a cloth let dry and 180 again then 0000 steel wool until I'm happy.preparing a boards back prior to tiller is key !IMHO.in short the back should be 95 percent done before starting.then a good floor tiller is in order(a very useful skill indeed)!if done correctly your bow will be 95 percent tillered before you start!anyways that what works for me.good luck!

[bradsmith2010]

sometimes I tie a board to a post to make a portable tiller tree,, I use the pulley , I tie it on as well,, then I can move it anywhere there is a post,, I use a wooden yard stick tied to the board to measure draw,,,remember to start measuring from the back of the bow,, not the belly

[Comancheria]

Pat: I hear you.  After the first of the year, I am planning to construct a tree with either a four or six inch grid behind it, with the grid sheet able to be disassembled since there is not adequate room in the shop (er, the garage).

Jackson:  I will be including a 100 pound scale as part of the setup.  I had a beautiful 100 pound Chatillon that I bought for testing fishing line and knots for tuna fishing, but it was broken and cannot be repaired.

George: I have looked at Sam's site several times but good to know it deals with strings.  When I get to doing strings, I will look there and on your site.  Thank you.

Dark soul, Bushboy, and Bubby:  thanks for your somewhat varied opinions.  Actually, I think you are all in agreement on the most important point--that some taper will have to happen--at whatever point.  And I do realize that.  The bow bends a little on the floor right now--but just enough to see that it bends more near the handle and is going to require some taper.

Thanks,

Russ

[DC]

Russ
My backboard is 2'x 7' and is held to the post with a single 1/2" dia lag bolt. That allows me to rotate it so it's 2" wide and out of the way.

[osage outlaw]

Russ, when you get your bow to full brace measure the string length from the outer edge of each loop and let me know.  I'll twist you up a double loop string.