Flemish String Question

[tom sawyer]

I pretty much use a timber hitch exclusively for my bowstrings anymore.  Re-twisting a second loop several times to get the right length is a pain.  But I'm finding that a timber hitch doesn't seem to work well with the newer B50-plus/fastflight string material.

But here is problem I often had when I did make double loop strings.  When twisting up the second loop, it seems that the twisting/braiding of the loop led to an unravelling of the strands ner one of the loops, that wouldn't come out or be reversed with more twisting of the finished string.  This has caused several of these strings to come undone on one end.  A big pain considering I hate making strings to begin with.

Any help on fixing what I'm doing wrong?  I've heard you are supposed to introduce a certain number of counter-twists before making the second loop, but never any details on this.

[Justin Snyder]

My only guess is that you are switching directions in your twist and wrap.  Always twist away and wrap toward.  I can sympathise with you on the wrong length thing. I still haven't figured out how to get it the right length the first time.  Recurve strings are especially difficult for me. Justin

[GregB]

What might be happening is the possibility that you're not rotating the string around 180 degrees when you start your second loop. After twisting for the initial loop length amount, I always have the loop in my left hand, and the excess string I'm splicing the loop with laying to the right. Do that with both loops, always have the excess rest of the string to the right of the loop you're working with. That way when you go to twist the string after both loops are finished, you're tightening the splices of both ends of the string at the same time...not tightening one end and unraveling the other end. Hope that makes sense, and I'm not sure if that is what is happening with your strings.

[Glenn R.]

First, just a reccomendation for anyone interested----the paperback book advertised in most archery catalogs---(K.K. & 3 rivers) "Laying in the Flemish Twist" is fantastic in my opinion.   Now reffering to your countertwist for the second loop? Hold each cord seperately, one at a time, between the first joint of your pointing finger and thumb and roll clockwise to the end of your finger, maintain the twist and repeat again about 12 times. Now secure this cord while going to the next. Once both have reverse twisting begin your second loop. This is a little more than what the authior uses but always gives me better results. Hope this helps.

[Dano]

In answer to your question or problem getting the right legnth string every time; A good jig will solve the problem, getting the right measurement on a recurve is easy, just measure from nock to nock on the belly side, then subtract 4", 3" for longbow. Here's a link for great info.

http://www2.pcom.net/jthutten/jth/doc/flem_jig.htm

[Justin Snyder]

Thanks Dano, I actually have the jig.  I just seem to wrap to tight and use to much string or not tight enough and leave it to long. Its really kind of embarrassing when someone is waiting for you to make them a string and you have to keep readjusting it.    Justin

[Dano]

I hear ya Justin, just takes LOTS of practice, like most things.

[cowboy]

I haven't had any problems with the dozen or so I've made. Have a jig but have to slow down and do some math every time - all I have is B-50..

[mullet]

   There is a good article in the newest edition of PA. Like February's 

[Otoe Bow]

You got yours? 

That's a Christmas present that I haven't got to open yet. 

Otoe

[Justin Snyder]

   There is a good article in the newest edition of PA. Like February's 

Hey my wife just brought mine in. Justin

[Pat B]

Oh Good. I have something to look forward to in the distant future. My new PA magazine!    Pat

[Minuteman]

I'd had the same problmem for awhile. I just started counting how many twists it took to make the plaited part on the first loop and added that many more to it before I started on the other end. That way if you unwind some making the other end its just in the string part not in the actual loop.

[DCM]

I do what Chris sez, sans the counting.  I counter twist the lays, after first making sure they are straight, about 20-30 twists before I start the second loop.  I like a string that lays straight in the center, twisted only on the ends.  I find w/ FF I need a newly twisted string about 1/2" to 3/4" shorter than stretched in string's lenght.  And you have to be careful when you start your second loop to get it positioned properly, I actually lay it up against the braced bow.  Don't find a jig to cut the strands particularly helpful, although admittedly a time saver, for getting the second loop positioned correctly.  Perhaps because I've never used one.

[Badger]

One thing about fast flight string is that you can twist it more than other strings to shorten it if it is too long. I can use about 4 different strings for bows from 58" to 72". Once it is twisted and the bow is braced I never notice all the twists, it doesn't buckle like linen or b 50 does. I use the double loop. Steve