To acetone or not to acetone?

[missilemaster]

  That is the question.  I have heard both sides of this and I want to get your opinion. I always scrub the wood well before I do a glue up and have not had a problem yet. But I know some good bowyers who say that that simply causes oils in the wood to rush to the surface so they dont ever use it.  Whats you opinion?

[Pat B]

Freshly cut or sanded wood seems to adhere better once the sawdust is brushed off with a stiff bruh. I've also heard that acetone or other solvents will draw oils up to the surface.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Never have and never will. But, you know me my friend! If it aint broke, why fix it?

[tattoo dave]

Some woods have a lot more oil in them than others. I think on white woods a good sanding wood be fine, but they're are a few woods out there that should be treated with acetone in order to remove as much oil as possible before glueing. Woods like paduk, or cocobolo.

Tattoo Dave

[missilemaster]

Yea, Paduk I have found has a near endless supply of oil in it. Maybe it could refined and sold as the next big health fad

[bubby]

I've done it with and without acetone on epe and haven't had a problem either way so I quit using it, just rough it up with 36 grit blow it off and glue it up

[adb]

Never. Ever.
I use TB3 glue, and freshly sanded surfaces. Even with ipe. It's all about prep.
I've never had a glue failure with hundreds of bows either.

[JonW]

I did several sinew backings by just roughing it with a hacksaw blade. No problems. I tried acetone two times in a row and had the sinew try to lift. I'm with Chris.

[bow101]

I understand your dilemma but the way I look at it why even use exotic woods other than the color and texture. There are great North American woods and lots of them that do not contain all this oil...........

1] Osage
2] Yew
3] Ash
4] Hickory
5] Maple
6] Cherry
7] Black Locust
8] Elm
9] Oak
10] Ocean spray
11] Juniper
12] Black Walnut
13] Hawthorn........and the list goes on.

[eponym]

I did several sinew backings by just roughing it with a hacksaw blade. No problems. I tried acetone two times in a row and had the sinew try to lift. I'm with Chris.

I'm also a fan of the hacksaw approach.

[Springbuck]

I've done it with and without acetone on epe and haven't had a problem either way so I quit using it, just rough it up with 36 grit blow it off and glue it up

 This   is how I do it with ipe and massaranduba, too.  I don't like to actually score the wood, but leaving a rough sanded, (though level), rather than glass smooth surface works great.

[duke3192]

You fellows didn't all say what glue you are using, remember, acetone is a solvent that thins epoxy(weakens).

[bubby]

You fellows didn't all say what glue you are using, remember, acetone is a solvent that thins epoxy(weakens).

Well 99% of my glueups are tb2 or 3

[mikekeswick]

Yes it depends on the glue. It's not a straight yes or no answer. Acetone can also be useful before you apply a finish. Denatured alcohol is also very good.
Lignum vitae is the best wood to play about with these things on. You want oil!?!?!?! Try steaming it for a bit of fun!
I also think it's best to do some simple tests yourself. Glue up some blocks of wood that have been 'degreased' some that haven't and repeat with all the different glues you use regularly. A large vice and an adjustable spanner will tell you a lot 
Also of course the manufacturer's tech sheet will tell all...if not I'd email them and get a definate answer.

[missilemaster]

Alright guys, thanks for the info. I am using smooth-on epoxy, Doesn't acetone only thin epoxies before it evaporates? I wouldent think there would be any danger of that when its dry.