My experience is a little different from adb's.
If I have a stiff handle and the backing strips extend way inboard of the fades, and I have a good glue line, I have had no trouble with backings lifting on the front. I have even not had them actually meet before, but that area where the backing strip runs out better not flex AT ALL, and several inches under the backing must be stiff, too. It helps to "v" splice or slash splice rather than just butt or skive splice, if they do reach, or the handle is short.
So, I agree that getting compression strong wood like osage or ipe is a great idea, but if you think about it, any of those woods you have can be made into a self bow, and all are tension strong woods that can be used for backing. I think you have a lot of cool stuff you could try. I'm assuming you are asking because you have boards available, right?
So, you are gonna make laminated board staves! No compression strong woods? Pre-heat treat a hickory belly, both sides, good and strong, glue up to a good backing, and trap the limbs a bit. That should be a good combo.
Backed bows fail/break/take set for the same reasons selfbows do. A sawn hickory backing probably isn't any stronget than an intact elm or ash growth ring. Backed or not, they should hold nicely with the right design. Now would be a good time to try taking advantage of some Perry reflex, since it relieves belly strain some. Make up some backed, wide pyramids. Also, the tri-lam could be Baker's vision of backing and core glued up in exaggerated reflex, then pulled into reasonable reflex and the belly applied.
The only thing I wouldn't do is a white oak belly. White oak just seems to want to take set. Heat treated it still takes set like a wood even lighter than itself.
