rawhide backed takedown question

[ravenbeak]

Hey,

I am working on a rawhide backed yew,  takedown.    The draw weight is supposed to be 75 lbs,  which is pushing the comfort level for me.

I have the billets fit into the takedown sleeve but not glued yet.  I was wondering about putting on the rawhide first,  and then refitting to the sleeve.   With the idea of having the rawhide support the transition out of the sleeve,

wondering if anyone has tried this,  or thinks it is a good idea or not?

thanks

[Weylin]

Here is my rawhide backed yew takedown. http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,46696.msg637091.html#msg637091

I didn't have the rawhide extend into the brass fittings but this bow is only 58#. I put my rawhide on this bow less for the added tension strength and more for protection in the field. I don't think it is a bad idea though. I can't think of a reason not to. I would advise you to not leave a lip of wood around the edge of the handle to hide the transition. I have seen it work fine and I have seen it cause problems. If you are pushing the limits with this bow I would make sure the limbs flow into the fittings smoothly for added integrity.

[PatM]

Rawhide doesn't glue well to metal with the glue you would typically use for a take-down sleeve.

[duke3192]

I've done it with bamboo and it worked fine. Are you using smooth on epoxy for the sleeve, if so I don't see any reason not to extend the rawhide into the sleeve.

[Weylin]

Rawhide doesn't glue well to metal with the glue you would typically use for a take-down sleeve.

Huh, wasn't aware. Good to know. I use the smooth-on epoxy. is that the case with it as well?

[bowmo]

Smooth on bonds to rawhide quite well. I of course don't use it to put on the rawhide, but I do put the rawhide on the back first and then grind the tips down after so that my tip overlays very slightly extend over the edge of the hide when I glue them on (with smooth on). I do this so the string can't ever grab the rawhide and peel it up when unstringing the bow. As for the handle  would certainly put it on before gluing up the sleeve and refit the handle if you still have the option.

[Springbuck]

  rawhide with glue dries up pretty darn hard.  if it extends into the sleeve as part of the general shape of the bow you'll be fine.  You'll be fine if it doesn't, too, as long as it extends well into the back opposite the fades. 

[Carson (CMB)]

My vote is for continuing the rawhide into the sleeves. And like Weylin mentioned, shape the fades so that you have a smooth transition from the limb into the handle.  I know of a couple of yew take-downs that lifted splinters due to an abrupt shoulder where the wood meets the metal sleeve.

[Gordon]

You can have a shoulder to hide the transition from the wood to the sleeve, except for the back.

[Richard B]

i did a test to look at the whole shoulder vs no shoulder question http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,49047.msg669598.html#msg669598

Results not quite as conclusive as I'd hoped, but seemed to suggest that you are better off without a shouldered joint (even only on the back and sides)