My noob questions

[jrmeza]

I imagine the title either enthralled people to read or scared them away, but oh well, here it goes. I just completed my first "real" attempt at a bow a couple days ago and now I am putting the finishing touches such as finish and handle wrap. Then I realized that although now I have a general understanding of MAKING the bow, by sketching out, roughing out, smoothing, tillering, fine tooning ect... but I know almost nothing about many little ins-n-outs. So heres a numbered list of questions, to make it simple, if you would like to help the new kid on the streets, number your answers! Thanks everyone! Oh, and keep in mind, I am not an archer "YET"... I want to learn the ropes of archery on my own bow made by my hands.

1. Whats with this "arrow pass" that I am just now noticing? that little leathery triangle above the grip? Why does it matter if the arrow is shot off the hand?

2. So far, both my bows (if I count the first sad attempt) were both very blocky in build. But a lot of the pro bowyers make very...idk... "ovular" (as in oval, not ovary  ) shape to the limbs. But whenever I chase a ring, the back of the bow is clearly defined, flat, and square on the edges, which contrasts with the round belly. I'm thinking about osage bows when I talk of this. I am wondering, how can one round the edges of the back of the bow, while still not violating the all important single ring?

3.How the heck do people make those very precise  and fluid looking nock shapes with the horn/wood tips? Or on any type of tip in general. So far, the only way I know how to make nocks is to take a rat-tail file and sand out very basic notches into the very rectangular tips of my bow. I am not looking for a full on HOW TO lesson, but what kinda tools are a requirement to do that and a brief summation of how its done so I can get an idea of it.

4. And that's all I can think of right now, I'll add more later if I think of it! Thanks again everyone, y'all make it so much easier to get knee deep in this special craft.

The types of nocks/tips that I am talking about are like these

[huisme]

I cover mine wih leather or fur because I like a quiet bow, and even just the sound of the arrow sliding against the finish too loud for me

Just sanding the very edges to a peas diameter will look better and be safer; rounding the edges of the all-important back ring actually lowers the chances of a splinter lifting. I use my scraper before sanding, personally.

I shape the overlay (except for the back nock itself) with rasps and sandpaper before gluing, and then in my early days I sketched out he path for my file, making a round path instead of a straight 45^o angle. Nowadays I rarely make back nocks wide enough for side nocks 

[SLIMBOB]

 I will take a stab at it...

1.  The arrow pass is exactly what the name implies, it's where the arrow passes.  The leather is padding to keep things quiet.  Shooting off the hand or a shelf, personal preference.  I make and like both types.  A shelf gives you a consistent place to rest the arrow from shot to shot and some will say it improves accuracy.  Others will say that shooting off the knuckle gives a better feel about the shot.  I like both of those thoughts and don't really prefer one over the other.  Short "Indian Style" bows I shoot off the hand.  Longer bows I will typically build in a shelf, but not always.  Try both and see which you prefer.

2.  A crowned stave, will necessarily give a rounded shape to the back.  The smaller diameter staves will generally have a higher crown and so a rounded shape to the back.  Flatter crowns will yield a flatter back, but most of mine have some crown to them regardless.  Rounding the edges reduces a little weight and relieves the stresses an angular edge would feel and will reduce the splinters that may pop up as a result.  You wont violate the back in rounding the edges.  Yes you are exposing the edge of a ring below it but no biggie there.  No angles or sharp edges anywhere is I think good advice.  Rounded bellies on Osage bows is in my opinion not optimal.  Board flat is the rule for me, as the belly will be better able to keep balanced with the back, the back being the stronger link in the chain and the belly the weaker.

3.  Tip overlays are not to hard to do, but a little hard to explain.  Take a block of wood or horn, a bit larger than you want the overlay.  Get 2 good mated surfaces for the joint.  Glue the block on and then shape it as you wish.  Nothing to it really beyond making sure you have a good glue line and understand the shape your after.  Look at lots of pics and pick one you like.