Author Topic: Tillering tree saddle  (Read 8362 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline DC

  • Member
  • Posts: 10,396
Tillering tree saddle
« on: October 26, 2014, 02:42:49 pm »
Should the bow be solidly held in the saddle of the tree or free to rock? Pros and cons please. I'm thinking of making a solid one, but adjustable, so I can position the bow in the same place every time. I figure that if the handle is always in the same position and one limb starts to take some set or bend to much it would let me know which limb has the problem.

Offline JoJoDapyro

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,504
  • Subscription Number PM109294
Re: Tillering tree saddle
« Reply #1 on: October 26, 2014, 02:53:23 pm »
I use a piece of saddle leather to secure my handle in the saddle.
If you always do what you always did you'll always get what you always got.
27 inch draw, right handed. Bow building and Knapping.

Offline Pat B

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 37,542
Re: Tillering tree saddle
« Reply #2 on: October 26, 2014, 02:56:55 pm »
Some folks use a radiused bow rest on their tiller tree but mine is a straight end cut 2x4. No matter what you use a tiller tree rest is static whereas your hand is flexible. You will get a more realistic reading from a hand held bow than from the tree and I guess the radiused rest would be closer to the hand than a square cut rest.
 Sometimes I have to clamp the bow to the tree when long stringing it but once braced the bow will balance by itself on the tree. If it doesn't your tiller is probably way off. 
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline wizardgoat

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,397
Re: Tillering tree saddle
« Reply #3 on: October 26, 2014, 03:18:51 pm »
Like pat mine is just the butt end of a 2x4. I have a little rounded piece of hardwood I use for bendy handle bows, and sometimes clamp it in place. After its brace, no clamp is usually needed

Offline bubby

  • Member
  • Posts: 11,054
Re: Tillering tree saddle
« Reply #4 on: October 26, 2014, 04:07:42 pm »
yeah mine is just a butt end of a 2x4, for staves that like to roll or with reflex I put the string on the tree and pull down on the handle section of the bow till brace, but I get mine almost to brace at floor tiller
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹

Offline Will H

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,120
Re: Tillering tree saddle
« Reply #5 on: October 26, 2014, 06:20:58 pm »
I use a square end post down at twin oaks often. But at my own shop I have something a little different. Either way works just as well. I think my strap setup is a bit easier when dealing with already shaped/highly contoured grips.






Proud Member of Twin Oaks Bowhunters
           Clarksville, Tennessee

   "Middle Tennessee is the place to be"

Offline uncleduck

  • Member
  • Posts: 179
  • Dave W
Re: Tillering tree saddle
« Reply #6 on: October 26, 2014, 06:28:09 pm »
Nice setup Will

Offline Gsulfridge

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,573
Re: Tillering tree saddle
« Reply #7 on: October 26, 2014, 09:00:32 pm »
Sweet set-up Will.
Greg Sulfridge, Lafollette, TN

Offline Knoll

  • Member
  • Posts: 3,016
  • Mikey
Re: Tillering tree saddle
« Reply #8 on: October 26, 2014, 09:04:27 pm »
... alone in distant woods or fields, in unpretending sproutlands or pastures tracked by rabbits, even in a bleak and, to most, cheerless day .... .  I suppose that this value, in my case, is equivalent to what others get by churchgoing & prayer.  Hank Thoreau, 1857

Offline George Tsoukalas

  • Member
  • Posts: 9,425
    • Traditional and Primitive Archers
Re: Tillering tree saddle
« Reply #9 on: October 27, 2014, 09:22:46 am »
I used to clamp the stave in but now I let it rock but it does rest on a straight piece. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/index.html
« Last Edit: October 27, 2014, 09:33:36 pm by George Tsoukalas »
Set Happens!
If you ain't breakin' you ain't makin!

Offline Aaron H

  • Member
  • Posts: 3,437
Re: Tillering tree saddle
« Reply #10 on: October 27, 2014, 10:34:11 am »
Great idea Will, do you have problems with your staves wanting to roll?

Offline Del the cat

  • Member
  • Posts: 8,298
    • Derek Hutchison Native Wood Self Bows
Re: Tillering tree saddle
« Reply #11 on: October 27, 2014, 10:40:04 am »
Mine is curved with some sheet rubber glued on it.
IMO you want to mimic how the bows is supported in the hand and free to rock, not clamped solid.
Other people like it clamped. You pays your money you takes your choice.
I can see how camping lets you see how each limb is working more in isolation but to me it's not realistic, because nothing is isolated with a bow.
Del
Health warning, these posts may contain traces of nut.

Offline simson

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,310
  • stonehill-primitive-bows
    • stonehill-primitive-bows
Re: Tillering tree saddle
« Reply #12 on: October 27, 2014, 10:48:02 am »
Mine is almost same as WillH's setup
Simon
Bavaria, Germany

Offline George Tsoukalas

  • Member
  • Posts: 9,425
    • Traditional and Primitive Archers
Re: Tillering tree saddle
« Reply #13 on: October 27, 2014, 01:29:26 pm »
Del, my hands are not made of rubber. LOL. :) Jawge
Set Happens!
If you ain't breakin' you ain't makin!

Offline Will H

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,120
Re: Tillering tree saddle
« Reply #14 on: October 27, 2014, 07:57:02 pm »
Falcon- not really. I only use my tree once the stave is braced. At which point it's almost impossible to do so. I can see how if you are using this type setup for long string tillering it could be an issue. I personally floor tiller by hand and brace it up. Bypassing long string. I also think that a static "tiller stick" is good for long string tillering, and we teach that method a lot down at Twin Oaks.
Proud Member of Twin Oaks Bowhunters
           Clarksville, Tennessee

   "Middle Tennessee is the place to be"