bighorn sheep bow #13

[loefflerchuck]

Ryan, I use about 3 ounces shredded. The bows are between 1/3 and 1/2 sinew. Not sure how much backset they start with. I don't just use one form. In the end tiller can add to backset

[wizardgoat]

Thanks chuck, thats alot of sinew. I was mostly referring to your caul
that is in your build along on your site.
Have you had a failure making one of these yet?
If so what happened?

[loefflerchuck]

That caul has 1.5" of reflex. Yes I have had 1 break in testing and 2  in the first. After over 50 hours of work and a month of testing I had one break at one of the rivets in the handle. Important lesson there. Not thick enough for a hole filled with harder than horn copper. 2 was a 35" bow with a 22.5" full draw. It developed extra bend near the handle after a couple months of shooting and failed. 3 happened after the bow left my shop. It broke in a thick even spot and I don't know how. May have been misused? All breaks were at or right above the handle.

[wizardgoat]

Is that why you add horn lams on either side at the lap splice?
How thick should the handle horn all be?

[Newindian]

This kind of bow has been my favorite for a long time yours is another great example

[stickbender]

     Absolutely beautiful!!!!   A lot of hard work, and stress of worrying if this one will fail also.  My hat is off to you sir!  How does it shoot, any hand shock?  Again, just outstanding all around.  Beautiful bow, and scenery.  Thanks for sharing.

                                     Wayne

[loefflerchuck]

2 of the failed bows had the 2 handle splices. I think now the most important thing with the handle in true replicas id a heavy wrap of sinew on the handle. The last 4 I started work on- 2 have 2 horn rivets and 2 have no rivets. Just the tung depressor like the one found in Wyoming dating from 1700+-. I am trying all designs out. most recent is a 30" Paiute replica. The handle splice is a lap splice only 2.4" long with 2 horn rivets. No handle splices. This bow I am willing to test to possible fail. I want over 60# draw and 18"+. The non bending section will only be 2.5"

[loefflerchuck]

Wayne, with a 550 grain arrow the chrono read in feet per second--175, 177,152,180,148,180.7 . Those numbers were higher than I expected and I think I was probably overdrawing the bow to 20" or so on the fastest shots. Funny though with a 305 grain cane arrow it shot almost the same 179-185 fps

[beartail]

I had to whipe the slober off my mouth before I could type!!dang that's a sweet bow!!I have been into primitive archery 15 years now and have always loved a horn bow but never even had the chance to touch one!maby someday.beatyfull bow brother.

[simson]

Incredible craftmanship, always love seeing your bows Chuck. This one is again a masterpiece as others already mentioned. And great pics and arrows, too!
Did you boil the horn flat, or do use a caul for adding reflex alredy in this stage?

[Parnell]

It's great Chuck.  I'm wondering in your summary of the bow, you reinforced the bow with horn overlays on the handle on the top and bottom of the lap splice?  I'm thinking of doing that with my project...  If I do a 3.5" lap splice, how long should the reinforcing piece be? Would 5" be enough?

[Traxx]

lookin good Chuck.

[loefflerchuck]

Thanks. Simson, I boiled the horn a few times but never for over 10 min. Parnell, 5" is plenty for a riser. If you have thick enough horn in the center I would say just do a lap splice with a couple rivets. I have overbuilt a few handles but am finding a thick sinew wrap may be enough for most center splices.

[Parnell]

Ok, thanks Chuck. 

[seminolewind]

Man that bow is so damn cool ! I really like the pic against the petroglyphs that brings it full circle...well done !