some pics from my boiling machine, here with the horizontal pipe used for boiling midlimb or at handle
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020655_zpsdce4183e.jpg)
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020656_zps15ffbe22.jpg)
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020657_zpsba82845e.jpg)
the flex pipe allows boiling snakeys or character staves
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020658_zps22f09c30.jpg)
here is a quick sketch about the layout, should have made it in session one
just to clarify the system
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020659_zps4e9de14d.jpg)
Now let's go on:
I don't trust in the old chased ring, I go for the next and let portions from the old on handle (allows to round out on the back) and tips (perhaps I need them, we will see).
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020605_zps84157d5f.jpg)
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020606_zps554059cf.jpg)
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020607_zps43455e9a.jpg)
looking down the stave you see the limb is off about 2-3. forgot to say: most of the twist was corrected with the recurving job.
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020601_zps33b2fe8f.jpg)
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020603_zps83c22ab5.jpg)
The string alignment was corrected with boiling midlimb, did come along nicely, but still 1½ off. I will do the rest with dry heat .
I will go for a deep handle on this bow, but the stave wasn't thick enough. The handle is planed down for a glue up.
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020608_zpse23ffbde.jpg)
I found a nice piece of plum heartwood, which I also prepped for the glue line
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020611_zps8336072c.jpg)
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020612_zpsd96587e1.jpg)
a few rough rasping
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020614_zps85aad2b7.jpg)
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020615_zpsfc6ba669.jpg)
a bit sanding
.
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020616_zpsffa2b1d9.jpg)
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020617_zps32c5ff2d.jpg)
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020618_zps8f206696.jpg)
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020620_zps469a5f49.jpg)
Now for the thickness. Here is a pic were a green line is drawn parallel (about 11/32). you the mark fade, I hav egiven up the short fades (3 from handle) and decided to go for long fades (looks much better). So graduation mark 1 has become my new fade.
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020621_zps0b830b09.jpg)
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020623_zps839c2d03.jpg)
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020624_zps789d8c22.jpg)
Working out very carefully to the green line, of course from fade to tip. I try to get a smooth transition from handle to fade. The tips, and recurves are let thick, this is a job for later. As said I use a razor sharp draw knife with a thick blade and a steep angle. This makes it easy to work exactly to a given line and you can get nicely curls
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020662_zps9e7f745d.jpg)
as you see above, working down the thickness to the parallel line creates an automatically taper from fade to tip.
Here is the leftover from session two
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020626_zps56a8f70f.jpg)
And this is how it looks like now
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020628_zps76447953.jpg)
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020629_zps4e309e95.jpg)
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020630_zps0579df5c.jpg)
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020631_zpscf445bcc.jpg)
with all the interruptions for taking pics I (fool as I am) have forgotten doing the heat correction. I usually do this at the handle, but I have already glued on the plum! Only chance is bending in the fade. After measuring string alignment with a piece of cord it shows a bit more than 2 off. The handle is secured with alu foil to protect it from the heat.
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020633_zpse157fae4.jpg)
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020634_zps48199e01.jpg)
![](http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh576/orangesimson/osage%20staic%20plum%20handle/P1020635_zps74aafda3.jpg)
the ruler shows me how long I have to heat. After the bending job, I let it cool out for at least 2hours.