My 1st bow--Critique & Advice Please & Knots

[bow101]

Heck, were only what 12 hours away.

+2 ................where the bow mun....?

[bubby]

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,29483.0.html
KC bow makers club

[RedBear1313]

All of what you guys have said is great and helpful and I really do appreciate it but my answer wasn't really answered.

when I shape it out and get closer to tillering, will I need to do anything to that knot?

since it has a black & hard center? just leave it alone or remove the black core?

[Eric Krewson]

Here is your answer; As knots go in osage yours is insignificant, nothing to worry about at all unless you stick it on the edge of your limb during your layout. You can see the grain lines flow around the knot like water in a stream around a rock. When you lay out your bow leave a little bulge that follows these lines on your limb edge. Any place you violate or cut across the flow of the grain around a knot will fail, just about 100% of the time.

[RedBear1313]

so while I'm laying it out try to put that knot as close to center of limb that I can?

I realize I won't be able to get it dead center but as close as I can?

and just ignore the backside of the knot while I am shaping the belly and the tillering process?

[SLIMBOB]

I don't think having it dead center is needed.  May not even be best in some cases.  As the others have said, that knot is of little worry.
1. Don't cut through the center of it when laying out the front profile.
2.  Follow the grain around the knot when laying out the front profile.

That's about it really.  The belly side will be what it is.  Tiller as per normal.

[RedBear1313]

I don't think having it dead center is needed.  May not even be best in some cases.  As the others have said, that knot is of little worry.
1. Don't cut through the center of it when laying out the front profile.
2.  Follow the grain around the knot when laying out the front profile.

That's about it really.  The belly side will be what it is.  Tiller as per normal.

OK, that's what I needed to know.   I'll think I'll just keep using this thread as I move further along with this bow when I have more questions and I'll def be taking more pics as the bow progresses.
Thanks for all the answers.

[RedBear1313]

They have no clue at box stores, not their fault.

I would build your bow 64" tip to tip. Start with 1 5/8" wide and finish it off around 1 3/8 wide. Keep that 1 5/8 width until mid limb, then straight taper to 1/2" wide tips, you can also narrow them later. The handle should be 4" long and each fade should extend 1 1/2" beyond the handle. That will leave you 27 1/2" of working limb per side. Id suggest skirting that knot since you have plenty of width to do so.

what do you mean start with 1 5/8" wide and finish with 1 3/8"?

[SLIMBOB]

PD's advice is solid. Draw your front profile out so that it is 1 5/8" wide at the fades. As you get close to finishing it you can narrow it down some. 1/8" both sides or there about. You can always make it more narrow an shed a little mass. You can't add it back on.

[RedBear1313]

that's what I wasn't sure what he meant, start with wide profile at 1 5/8" and shave off an additional 1/8" later if needed.

I'm laying it out right now, and was able to put the knot in one of the fades.

with the handle and fades, do I have to be as faithful with the grain as I do on the limbs?
I mean can I make more of a straight cut on the handle/fade section?

I will take a couple pics once I'm done with the layout

[SLIMBOB]

You will violate the grain in the fades. The fades won't bend so no problem. You will do the same in your width taper to a small degree.

[RedBear1313]

Here's what I have so far. It was too hard to get the whole layout in one pic so I took a few.
Was thinking about modifying the handle somewhat to give it a rest.

[SLIMBOB]

No cut in shelf in my opinion.  They are doable, but unnecessary and can be a spot where you lose the whole thing if your not careful.  Take a piece of latigo leather and build up a shelf.  Easier by far and zero problems with it.
I don't know your dimensions so from what I see, it looks good.  Just faithfully follow the grain down the centerline of the stave for the centerline of your bow.  Then make the sides follow that path.

[Pat B.]

I'm another new guy to selfbows and I just want to tell you experienced guys how much I appreciate your comments...

With your guidance I suspect  many bows will come to life from the hands of many different would be bowyers !!

[PEARL DRUMS]

Sorry for the confusion, proof reading pays. I meant to type 1 5/8" wide from the fades to mid limb, then taper to 3/8" tips, finished. Id suggest tapering to 5/8" for now. You can narrow it later as you shape the profile down. Personally? I get my bows finished profile done and sturdy right off the saw, before I ever touch the belly. That way I have no suprises as I shape and tiller the belly down. I have ONE surface to concern myself with until completion, and not three.