Juniper from Bryce (tiller check?) anyone?!

[Blaflair2]

So I won this stave from Bryce, cut in sisters Oregon. Primo! Wanting to make a short sinew backed bow. Was looking for some advice and help as I have never used juniper. Clint sent me some sinew for another bow and I decided to shelf the bow. So this is what I plan on sinewing. I'm 6'4" and it's taller than me. Slight deflex in the whole thing. Want around 55-60# @29"... Any dimensional help or help on ANYTHING!! Steam bend?

[lukelawrence171]

if you go on ed scotts website there is some nice examples of sinew backed juniper bows there all pretty short but they make very nice bows.

[blackhawk]

Here's what I'd do with that,but that's just me and might be different from someone else's opinion...

Reduce and decrown the sapwood off,and still leaving a subtle crown...

Mark center at the apex of the deflex and place handle there

Make it for a 60-62" ntn stiff handled bow...go 1 3/4" wide till mid limb then taper to nocks

Steam bend in sharp static recurves

Get bow to low brace and not pulling far at all...just enough to make sure string tracks perfectly ..make adjustments if needed

Sinew it pulling in more reflex thru the working limbs by reverse bracing or other methods etc...

Let it cure...tiller and enjoy the love

[PEARL DRUMS]

Yup

[Blaflair2]

Oh, that's all?!? Lol. Thanks Chris. Much sinew would I need ya think?

[PEARL DRUMS]

3 courses will be great. 2 full width layers and one racing stripe say 1" wide.

[blackhawk]

Oops...sorry....forgot the copperhead skins that go on it after shooting it in ....and enough for 3 courses,and build up a crown with the sinew as ya do it(like pearly says) ....I never weigh in ounces...I just shred up a bunch and more than I think I'd need,but that's just me...some folks weigh it

[Blaflair2]

Lol of course the copper heads, lol. I'm bowyerin' on a budget! I'll have to get ahold of some more sinew. I don't believe I have enough. And I wanna put something over the sinew. Snake skins would be nice. Well cross that bridge when we come to it. Thanks again. U know I'm a sucker for statics.

[Blaflair2]

Also take all the sapwood off? Or 1/8"?

[blackhawk]

If you can remove the sapwood and have enough heartwood left to have a stiff handle then yes..remove it...if not you can leave some and it'll be fine.....and take your time on this one and try to go slow....and if your on a budget and need more sinew go find some road kill....I've done it hit the brakes ,throw the hazards on,jump out with a knife,and remove...it don't take long to remove imo...then drive away with a smile on your face,and when ya get home don't forget to show the wife the treasure ya found on the side of the road 

[PEARL DRUMS]

Id say you will need about 10-12 back straps to do it up right.

[Blaflair2]

I have a bunch of leg tendons I got from Clint, should I try and just get back sinew? What's the difference? Just length?

[PEARL DRUMS]

Leg tendons are tedious and labor intensive. I can process enough back sinew in 30 minutes to do an entire bow. Leg sinew, 30 days of pounding and beating and peeling and separating.....yuck. As far as integrity? Its MY belief that the longer the pieces the better the end product. Sinew is a matrix and anytime you have a bunch of short 6-8" pieces you are putting the matrix to the test. Long pieces equal less joints and overlain areas. 

[Pat B]

Use any sinew you have. Back sinew I nice because it is longer but any sinew will work.
 I'll be watching this. I have a juniper stave I got from Keenan a few years ago when he was at the Classic and it will probably be a short static recurve.

[Blaflair2]

I've never taken back sinew out. And hunting season is over. So I have the short stuff. Lol.