Bingo George.
Marc you said, "Making a bow, to me, is getting the limbs balanced with uniform tips so that they are very close to the same and bending smoothly so that it neither rocks back or forth when drawn. I call that proper tillering of a bow. Some may just call it timing a bow."
I'm partly of the same thought process, but don't need the tips to be uniform, the same distance in front of or behind the handle, coming down the same distance on the tree, etc. One can be straight and the other reflexed, or whatever. It can be a really weird, unique thing, and can still be timed/tillerd/sync'd correctly to the archer's holds. It may look bizarre to many folks at brace, but I don't much care so long as the limbs' relative strength allow the arrow nock to come straight back and leave straight ahead... she's good.... she'll feel like an equally well tillered/timed straight bow... and she's gonna do exactly what she was meant to do... with the good attributes we claim to value... and in the end, the braced profile simply is what it is.
I used to heat straighten stuff more than I do now. I understand now that it was more just to please my eye cuz like most folks, I grew accustomed to symmetry, now I usually only heat and bend if I have to.
I concur though that when making bows for the 'uninformed' I will do more heat correcting than I would for myself.
To me, 'correct tillering' encompasses much... and high on the list of importance are limbs that are synchronized such that neither overpowers the other when drawn as the archer will. Due to their inherent irregularities, in order for wooden bows, especially selfbows, to accomplish this, for any given archer's holds, their braced profiles may vary considerably. Many folks however, use the same predetermined brace height measurements as their beacon and ultimate goal throughout the process on ALL their bows. This is a mistake IMO.
Dragonman, I'm not trying to apply direct laws of physics to my bows, at least not with blinders on... quite the contrary. I do whatever needs done to get the bow to do best what it is meant to do... shoot an arrow straight away with purpose... not porpoise :^) while treating itself, the archer, and the arrow most kindly. Two bows that LOOK the same unstrung, may act and look different later in the draw due to invisible inherent differences. Tillering/synchronizing the limbs the way I do makes neither more difficult, may make them look different at brace and/or full draw, yet function and feel the same.
Conversely, it could be viewed that those who are 'trying to apply direct laws of physics' to their bows and tillering are those who tiller to specific predetermined brace height measurements and 'expect' their wooden bows to behave a certain way... which they always don't... those who do what they're told whether best for them and their own bows or not.
Talk about making assumptions :^)
If someone looks at one of my bows and tells me the "tiller's off" because it's negatively tillered, or not what they'd otherwise 'expect'... "I need all my bows tillered 1/4" positive"... or some such... I'm going to have to assume they're making too many assumptions :^)