Author Topic: Question before retillering  (Read 5437 times)

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Offline Blob

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Question before retillering
« on: April 09, 2014, 12:20:48 pm »
So I introduced myself last week and thanked everyone for their help.

I have a Linen backed Red Oak ELB that I got off ebay cheap a few years ago.  Never really cared for it, didn't shoot great and had tons of handshock.  Decided that I was going to refurbish it.  Removed the linen backing and sanded it smooth.  Now just trying to decide how to glue it up, that is where I am looking for recommendations.  I have a couple options:  Maple backing, Hickory backing, or Maple core with Hickory backing.  It is currently 72" long, ~2" wide, and tapers to ~1" at the tips.  I have no problem making it shorter and am open to all suggestions.

My Goal is 45-50# @ 26"

Fire Away!!
« Last Edit: April 15, 2014, 09:57:43 pm by Blob »

Offline Blaflair2

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Re: Question before glueup
« Reply #1 on: April 09, 2014, 01:03:54 pm »
Well I'd say ur beat bet is to go to lowes or homedepot and buy a new red oak board and start from scratch. If the bow has been shot and stuff the belly is already damaged. Ur better off just making a red oak board bow from one of the build alongs.
Nothing ventured nothing gained

Offline BOWMAN53

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Re: Question before glueup
« Reply #2 on: April 09, 2014, 01:13:29 pm »
1" at the tips? and 72" long, i bet it does have some nasty hand shock. like blaflair2 said your better off making a new one.

Offline toomanyknots

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Re: Question before glueup
« Reply #3 on: April 09, 2014, 01:15:48 pm »
Yeah, if you back it with a wood backing, your gonna have to retiller it anyway to some degree at least I would think, essentially making a new bow in the first place. So you might as well start with a clean piece of wood anyway I would figure?
"The way of heaven is like the bending of a bow-
 the upper part is pressed down,
 the lower part is raised up,
 the part that has too much is reduced,
 the part that has too little is increased."

- Tao Te Ching, 77, A new translation by Victor H. Mair

Offline Blob

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Re: Question before glueup
« Reply #4 on: April 09, 2014, 02:00:33 pm »
I will be building an oak board bow in the near future.  However, I already have this one that is just begging to have a facelift.

So my question again:  Should I make it a tri-lam or just go with a single backing?

Offline PAHunter

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  • "If your not having fun, what's the point?" - Khan
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Re: Question before glueup
« Reply #5 on: April 09, 2014, 02:05:00 pm »
Starting new will give you a better chance at the end result.  But...  I always enjoy taking old bows and mucking wiht them.  IMO if a bow is laying in some corner it is not doing anyone any good.  Bows are for shooting and learning.  It will be a good learning experience.  You could cut it down a good bit if you like, anywhere down to 62 inches at you DL.  And thin the tips a great deal to 3/8'' perhpas.  I'm no expert on backing so I'll leave that to the bowmasters  on here if you want to go that route.  I'm sure posting a pic will help them wiht the advice.  good luck!
Thanks,
Rob - Wexford, PA

"Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe". - Abe Lincoln

Offline bubby

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Re: Question before glueup
« Reply #6 on: April 09, 2014, 03:00:14 pm »
it's 2" wide and an elb ???, got pics that is a huge grip
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹

Offline Blob

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Re: Question before glueup
« Reply #7 on: April 09, 2014, 03:02:42 pm »
Yep, its close to 2" wide with a D shaped belly.  I'll post pics when I get home later.

I will be doing something with it, it needs to be a shootable bow again!

Offline BOWMAN53

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Re: Question before glueup
« Reply #8 on: April 09, 2014, 03:21:27 pm »
please post pics, i would love to see this thing

Offline DarkSoul

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Re: Question before glueup
« Reply #9 on: April 09, 2014, 05:44:58 pm »
What was the draw weight initially? That'll give us an idea how much the weight needs to change now.

I would advice you to let this bow be, and start a new bow. It will likely be better than this current bow with an upgrade.
If you still want to improve this bow (since it isn't doing anything if it's laying in the corner), here's what I would do. I would pike it to about 68", refine the tips to ½" wide and remove the crowned belly if possible. Then re-tiller it to the desired draw weight. No need for an additional backing (IF the grain is good enough).
This bow should not be called an "ELB". A true English Longbow meet the ratio 5/8 for thickness/width at any point. This bow being 2" wide, cannot meet that rule and should hence be called a flatbow. Your bow might still be a longbow (just not an English longbow), if the string only touches the nocks and not the bow limbs.

If you insist on doing a glue-up, which everyone clearly advises against, than a maple backing of 1/8" would be best. No tri-lam.
"Sonuit contento nervus ab arcu."
Ovid, Metamorphoses VI-286

Offline Blob

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Re: Question before glueup
« Reply #10 on: April 09, 2014, 09:20:25 pm »
Ok, so it wasn't as wide as I thought it was. 1.5" wide in the center, 1" wide at the tips.

It was originally 50# @ 28"

I am going to be using it for something despite everyone saying its not worth it.  I only have limited resources to work with and this is already in my possession, so it is going to be getting a makeover.

I am confident that it will not be any worse when I'm finished than it was before I started.


Offline JW_Halverson

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Re: Question before glueup
« Reply #11 on: April 09, 2014, 09:27:33 pm »
Inch wide tips, sluggish, handshock enough to rattle fillings outa your teeth????

Funny, I don't remember ever selling you one of my bows.  Sorry.  :-[

I'm with the other folks, start from scratch...make YOUR OWN mistakes, don't waste your life fixing someone else's mistakes!
Guns have triggers. Bicycles have wheels. Trees and bows have wooden limbs.

Offline BOWMAN53

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Re: Question before glueup
« Reply #12 on: April 09, 2014, 09:28:57 pm »
Good luck dr Frankenstein.

Offline Loope

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Re: Question before glueup
« Reply #13 on: April 09, 2014, 10:26:34 pm »
From the pictures, it looks like this bow has several inches of set, unless the stave/board was deflexed prior to making the bow.  You don't know the history, and combined with the set in the pictures, you could consider it to be starting with damaged wood.

It is a bend in the handle bow, so you could probably pike it even shorter than the 68" recommended before the pictures which would increase the draw weight but more stress on the limbs.  Cutting the tips down to 1/2" and re-tillering to a proper profile should reduce the hand shock.  But if it is currently 50# @ 28 and you want 50# @ 26, this may not be achievable.

I would say if you want to do something with it, shorten to around 64", recut the limb profile to give you 1/2" at the tips, and re-tiller to give a proper tiller.  It may be an experiment and blow up, but you said it was essentially useless as a bow before, so at the worst case, it breaks and you wasted your time.  But you may end up with a decent shooter if the wood is okay.  I think what everybody else is saying is that the amount of work you would need to do on unknown quality wood would be better spent on a fresh board.  I say if you go into it with realistic expectations that it might break or might not result in your target of 50@26, then go for it and have fun.

Offline adb

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Re: Question before glueup
« Reply #14 on: April 09, 2014, 10:29:50 pm »
I think the other thing you may have learned is... you get what you pay for. You bought a cheap-ass bow off eBay and that's exactly what you got.
For the money you likely spent, you could buy enough material to make several better bows. There are lots of people on this forum that will help you through your first efforts.

Don't waste your time with that bow. It already has a lot of set. Backing it won't make a silk purse from a sow's ear.