Author Topic: stone points and elk  (Read 3624 times)

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Offline Blacktail

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stone points and elk
« on: March 04, 2014, 09:39:33 pm »
i am sure this question has been up before...SO,sorry about the repeat...and some of you might have info in this...what would be a good size of point for elk...all i need is length and width...in the state of Oregon the MININUM width is 7/8 (i think) might have to look again...SO,if you have any experience in this area that would be great...thanks again...

Offline Mohawk13

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Re: stone points and elk
« Reply #1 on: March 04, 2014, 09:57:12 pm »
Have some obsidian hafted arrows I will be using in Oregon, They are 1 3/16 long x 1" wide. I feel these will more than get the job done. Its not so much head size as shot placement....
He That Raises the sword against us, Shall be cleaved upon seven fold-Talmud.

Offline kleinpm

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Re: stone points and elk
« Reply #2 on: March 04, 2014, 10:37:46 pm »
If the minimum requirement is 7/8 inch then that is the biggest I would use. Mine are about that wide and roughly 1.5 inches long, mostly Bear Gulch obsidian.

Patrick

Offline Wolf Watcher

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Re: stone points and elk
« Reply #3 on: March 05, 2014, 01:17:26 am »
My Opinion:  I killed several elk with stone points when I lived in Oregon and Washington and moose, elk and mule deer in Wyoming.  I shot a recurve that pulled 65# and Port Orford shafts.  I think the size of point you use should match your bow weight and arrow weight and spine.  3/4" width is just fine as long as the length will allow a point weight that doesn't overpower your shaft.  I use a balance scale to make a set of hunting points as close to the same weight as possible.  This last year Wyoming finally made hunting with stone points legal again.  They have to be 1" wide to be legal.  I do have to admit when I first was learning to hunt with stone points some of my successful kills were with butt ugly points.  Joe
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Offline Bryce

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Re: stone points and elk
« Reply #4 on: March 05, 2014, 04:17:25 pm »
Here's what I use buddy:) and they work quite well.

They come in around 135grn.



Clatskanie, Oregon

Offline Outbackbob48

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Re: stone points and elk
« Reply #5 on: March 05, 2014, 06:51:47 pm »
Bryce, have you tried the heavy serrated type an if you have what were your results as far as plugging wound with lots of hair from all the serrations. Bob

Offline Mohawk13

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Re: stone points and elk
« Reply #6 on: March 05, 2014, 06:54:01 pm »
The one on the Left is 2" Long x 1" wide....One on the Right is 2 1/2" long by 1" wide. Either of these would be ideal. I am using the style on the left this year for Elk and Deer.
He That Raises the sword against us, Shall be cleaved upon seven fold-Talmud.

Offline Bryce

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Re: stone points and elk
« Reply #7 on: March 05, 2014, 08:44:44 pm »
Bryce, have you tried the heavy serrated type an if you have what were your results as far as plugging wound with lots of hair from all the serrations. Bob
You pop a lung or two, then it doesn't make much if a difference.
I have only killed 1 elk with a stone point.
I'm using the serrated points this year, I'll let yah know;)
Clatskanie, Oregon

Offline Blacktail

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Re: stone points and elk
« Reply #8 on: March 06, 2014, 12:49:47 am »
THANK YOU SO MUCH..now i know i am on the right track...the points i started to make are in the style that bryce is showing...hey joe..bare with me on this..BUT,you said.... as long as the point weight dont over power the arrow...does this mean NOT being to heavy....for some reason i all ways feel that stone points are way to light...maybe that is just me and i need to play with them more...thanks for the info...john

Offline Wolf Watcher

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Re: stone points and elk
« Reply #9 on: March 06, 2014, 08:20:36 am »
Way too heavy is right.  A thin blade can penetrate very well and a long blade can wind plane  on long shots.   I shot a bear while hunting in Alberta with a stone point that was way to heavy and believe that a thinner blade would have preformed much better.  I have that point glued on the frame of a picture of Hawk Huston just to remind me to keep the weight down. Bob they did a dig in southern Wyoming on an antelope hunting camp and found 1500 thin serrated points that were designed to kill antelope.  Antelope hair is very course so I assume the serrations were for penetration thru that hair.  Most of the animals I have killed with stone points bled out inside!   Some states have a restriction on the shape of the back of the blade which does not allow for the barbs pointing backward. I think shot placement with a good penetrating point and shaft is the real answer to a successful and quick kill!  I would like to have some advise as to the best type and shape of a blade to kill a turkey with?  Joe
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Offline Ryan_Gill_HuntPrimitive

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Re: stone points and elk
« Reply #10 on: March 06, 2014, 09:06:43 am »
All these points have killed and recovered Deer or hogs. Despite the number that I have killed, the ones that I have lost are the ones that taught me the most. My bows are all mid 50's - 60# bows, 500-600 grain cane arrows and each point is no more than 100 grains and most of them are in the 80 range.   They all have (or had) serrations that were scary sharp.  The things that have hurt me the most on penetration are too big of points, too blunt of points, too light of arrow, too dull or smooth edged points.    I have found that serrations have helped more than hurt. If the serrations are really sharp, they wont hurt penetration. The serrations really help when it comes to snagging and ripping lung tissue to ribbons.   When it comes to a big elk, I'd choose the same size points as for whitetails, maybe even a touch smaller. I typically get out both sides of deer and often times get total pass throughs, so I'd really be trying to get as much penetration as possible on an elk. You might be able to get out both sides of an elk if you miss a rib, but even deer ribs can slow and deflect an arrow enough to hurt penetration, so I'd imagine that problem would be compounded on a big elk rib.  the points sound light, but stone is not nearly as dense as steel. Choose measured dimensions over weight. Make up the weight in your arrow and leave you points small  7/8 -1 " wide and 2- 2.5" long and as sharp as a brand new, carpenters saw blade.  also make sure the transition is tapered and smoothed to perfection, no hang ups on the transition.   Nothing is worse than watching an animal run off with your arrow with about 2 inches of penetration.     If I personally was going after elk, I'd be shooting a 60# bow 600gr arrows +/-  and 80-90 grain points that are ridiculously sharp and I'd make sure my arrows fly without a single wobble.
« Last Edit: March 06, 2014, 04:55:07 pm by twistedlimbs »
Formerly "twistedlimbs"
Gill's Primitive Archery and HuntPrimitive

Offline Bryce

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Re: stone points and elk
« Reply #11 on: March 06, 2014, 02:02:11 pm »
Using my 60# yew selfbow and those 135grn points.they came in around 610grns total. At 25-30 yards the arrow busted through the first rib and was lodged half way in on the rib on the other side. And snapped the point off flush with the bone. I was in absolute awe at how well the stone worked.


Had to dig the tip out :/ kind of a pain. But I got the rest of it:)




« Last Edit: March 06, 2014, 02:09:42 pm by Bryce (Pinecone) »
Clatskanie, Oregon

Offline Bryce

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Re: stone points and elk
« Reply #12 on: March 06, 2014, 02:42:03 pm »
THANK YOU SO MUCH..now i know i am on the right track...the points i started to make are in the style that bryce is showing...hey joe..bare with me on this..BUT,you said.... as long as the point weight dont over power the arrow...does this mean NOT being to heavy....for some reason i all ways feel that stone points are way to light...maybe that is just me and i need to play with them more...thanks for the info...john

The more weight you add to the front of the arrow the lighter your dynamic spine becomes in the arrow. For instance take a shaft that 60-65 put a 125grn point. Might shoot fine for your bow. Add a 160grn. Or anything heavier it changes the spine of you arrow and will make it wobble in flight and make the shaft under spine for that given setup.
Get a copy of Greg asbells book vol. 1&2 very good stuff. He's done multiple testing in arrow flight and penetration. 
Clatskanie, Oregon

Offline Wolf Watcher

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Re: stone points and elk
« Reply #13 on: March 06, 2014, 11:31:23 pm »
Bryce:  Now that was what I was trying say! 
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Offline Bryce

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Re: stone points and elk
« Reply #14 on: March 07, 2014, 02:37:44 am »
Bryce:  Now that was what I was trying say!

Lol I had a feeling that's what you were trying to get across :)
Clatskanie, Oregon