Author Topic: BL beginnings  (Read 2069 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Blaflair2

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,042
BL beginnings
« on: December 27, 2013, 01:42:48 am »
So made some headway on the old a$& BL stave. Got her looking more like a bow. Gonna put some bends in it. Should I floor tiller it before I bend?
Nothing ventured nothing gained

Offline Blaflair2

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,042
Re: BL beginnings
« Reply #1 on: December 27, 2013, 02:27:09 am »
Forgot the pix, they kinda stink sorry. I'll post better ones when I get a chance.
Nothing ventured nothing gained

Offline adb

  • Member
  • Posts: 5,339
Re: BL beginnings
« Reply #2 on: December 27, 2013, 03:34:55 am »
So made some headway on the old a$& BL stave. Got her looking more like a bow. Gonna put some bends in it. Should I floor tiller it before I bend?

Definitely.

Offline huisme

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,036
  • I'm Marc, but not that Marc.
Re: BL beginnings
« Reply #3 on: December 27, 2013, 03:46:41 am »
Always floor tiller, it'll help with set and keeping away the chrysals. I also advise a slight trapping, just giving the back a little concavity to lessen the disparity between compression and tension strength.
50#@26"
Black locust. Black locust everywhere.
Mollegabets all day long.
Might as well make them short, save some wood to keep warm.

mikekeswick

  • Guest
Re: BL beginnings
« Reply #4 on: December 27, 2013, 03:57:17 am »
Always floor tiller, it'll help with set and keeping away the chrysals. I also advise a slight trapping, just giving the back a little concavity to lessen the disparity between compression and tension strength.

Just get the limbs to 1/2 inch thick max where you are going to bend the curves in most importantly work the belly to one ring. Boil them actually in the water not just steam. Seal it with shellac before boiling/bending. No need to actually floor tiller the whole stave just to bend the tips in.
The way to stop b.locust from chysaling is to go slow and steady and don't get impatient and pull it further than needed to see a problem. I've only ever had chyrsals on one b.locust bow and that was the first one I made before I really devolped my eye! It was a damp damp and I was rushing.....
Husime - what do you mean by a little concavity when trapping the back? He should be aiming for a trapezoid cross section.

Offline huisme

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,036
  • I'm Marc, but not that Marc.
Re: BL beginnings
« Reply #5 on: December 27, 2013, 05:28:41 am »
I said concavity when I meant convexity, which doesn't sound quite as right out loud while it means the right thing. it brings the tension/compression strengths closer to equilibrium, which is a big part of why osage orange is such a stable, reliable wood and BL is more likely to fail with use sooner.

My method for tillering is to get as much of the bend and weight figured out as possible before even stringing the thing. I count the number of corrections and re-stringings to challenge myself, and thus far have a high score of three with a piece of vine maple I should really get around to photographing. I don't know if it's at all necessary, but I've had good results using this method.
50#@26"
Black locust. Black locust everywhere.
Mollegabets all day long.
Might as well make them short, save some wood to keep warm.

Offline Blaflair2

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,042
Re: BL beginnings
« Reply #6 on: January 02, 2014, 12:31:30 am »
So it looks a lot more like a bow now! Still have to correct some twist and get this profile I'm seeing in my head on her. What yas think?
Nothing ventured nothing gained

Offline huisme

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,036
  • I'm Marc, but not that Marc.
Re: BL beginnings
« Reply #7 on: January 02, 2014, 01:17:08 am »
Oh now that is going to be a screamer. Keep those tips stiff and narrow, go out-shoot your f!@#$glass friends.
50#@26"
Black locust. Black locust everywhere.
Mollegabets all day long.
Might as well make them short, save some wood to keep warm.