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Author Topic: Contact cement  (Read 2245 times)

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Offline zinger

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Contact cement
« on: October 12, 2013, 02:40:45 am »
I have used Titebond glues on a number of laminated bows I have done with great success. However, I have thought about using contact cement recently thinking that it might be less messy and knowing that it is much, much faster in drying. Any thoughts?
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Offline Gordon

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Re: Contact cement
« Reply #1 on: October 12, 2013, 02:43:01 am »
It might hold up, but you'll have zero working time once the laminations come into contact.
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Gordon

Offline Joec123able

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Re: Contact cement
« Reply #2 on: October 12, 2013, 02:46:58 am »
When your talking about glue, IN MY OPINION, drying time really should not matter if you have patience. Again before some one says something it's my opinion
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Offline Del the cat

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    • Derek Hutchison Native Wood Self Bows
Re: Contact cement
« Reply #3 on: October 12, 2013, 03:44:50 am »
It's a problem creation exercise...
WHY?
Del
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Offline Cameroo

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Re: Contact cement
« Reply #4 on: October 12, 2013, 04:00:00 am »
I think it would be a disaster.  One of the benefits of contact cement is that the pieces can be pulled apart again if required.  Not exactly a trait that you would be looking for in the laminations of a bow...
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Offline BowEd

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Re: Contact cement
« Reply #5 on: October 12, 2013, 06:07:23 am »
Patience is a virtue everyone has to learn making these bows from natural materials.A glue up on laminations is one of the least time consuming steps unless it's a horn bow with sinew.
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BowEd
You got to stand for something or you'll fall for anything.
Ed

Offline adb

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Re: Contact cement
« Reply #6 on: October 12, 2013, 11:22:32 am »
I think a laminated bow glued up with contact cement would be fine... until you bend it.  8)
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Offline toomanyknots

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Re: Contact cement
« Reply #7 on: October 12, 2013, 11:24:07 am »
Quote from: Cameroo on October 12, 2013, 04:00:00 am
I think it would be a disaster.  One of the benefits of contact cement is that the pieces can be pulled apart again if required.  Not exactly a trait that you would be looking for in the laminations of a bow...

I second this, and have to respectfully disagree with Gordon. I don't think this could ever work, I use contact cement for a lot of things, mostly handles though. I don't think it would hold up for the first floor tiller bend.
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"The way of heaven is like the bending of a bow-
 the upper part is pressed down,
 the lower part is raised up,
 the part that has too much is reduced,
 the part that has too little is increased."

- Tao Te Ching, 77, A new translation by Victor H. Mair

Offline BowEd

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Re: Contact cement
« Reply #8 on: October 12, 2013, 11:38:03 am »
The thing about contact cement too though is that the longer you let it cure the better the bond so you wo'nt be gaining much in time actually.I know putting thin birch bark on sinew backed bows that it holds,but you have to let it cure and that's a lot thinner material too.If good contact cement is let to cure[2 to 3 days] you absolutely cannot just pull it apart to adjust.The only way is to spray debonder on it a little at a time.
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BowEd
You got to stand for something or you'll fall for anything.
Ed

Offline adb

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Re: Contact cement
« Reply #9 on: October 12, 2013, 11:54:12 am »
One of the first sets of snake skins I backed a bow with I used Barge Cement (a super contact cement). It's still fine after nearly 10 years. I wouldn't do it again, but the bow is still OK. You only get one chance to lay it down straight without any bubbles or wrinkles. I didn't quite get the skins on straight and it was a real pain in the arse. TB3 works so much better.
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