Capt's 2nd Bow, Osage recurved tips (now with money shot)

[adb]

That's a fairly shallow bend and that's totally fine if that's what you want. The curve will pull out a wee bit on any bow I've recurved, so I usually go a bit further than where I want to end up. Osage is good wood to bend, it likes it. Don't be afraid to take it where you want it. I've included a pic of my recurve form, to give you and idea of what's possible.

[Capt]

"semi static" - is there such a thing ??
seems to me that the tips would "open" a bit OR be static..

By semi-static I mean much less give than the working section but not quite compleatly rigid... I want them to work like leavers but with the least possible mass... Don't want hand shock developing from heave static tips... But want the leaver effect to give extra speed....

[PEARL DRUMS]

Static tips are no heavier than straight tips.  I should explain myself better, sorry.

For the most part the last 6-8" of the limb doesn't bend. It doesnt matter what shape that last 6-8" is formed to. It still weighs the same after bending and still doesn't move albeit a true static or just a flip.

[huisme]

Static tips are no heavier than straight tips.  I should explain myself better, sorry.

For the most part the last 6-8" of the limb doesn't bend. It doesnt matter what shape that last 6-8" is formed to. It still weighs the same after bending and still doesn't move albeit a true static or just a flip.

I've only been able to get the bend within two inches of the tips while going for as close to 100% working wood as possible on an experimental BL stave, making for one inch of static wood before the knock. The last few inches had to be tapered very carefully and rather dynamically to get any bend at all, and got kinda scary thin at the end.

Non static tips are fun for me, and I suggest them because they're technically more mass efficient, but really the milligrams aren't going to do much for arrow speed. It isn't hard to get a little bend in there, but continuing elliptical tiller to the tips is... Ambitious 

[Capt]

Ok Almost done.... Shot a few arrows today... Its a beast!!

Still want to do a little rework on the tips... i wanted to keep them static but i think they look a bit fat so i plan to thin em down a bit more...

Also still waiting to get my rattle snake skins.. i have to head up to the ranch this week and see if the ranch hand killed any recently... trade him some beers or cigarettes for em? I do really like the way it looks as is though... finished with a bit of Hemp seed oil....

Here are some pics... in the morning i'll be rasping down the tip thickness a bit and will load up some full draw pics after i'm done....

I hit target and had it at #60@27" but to be honest it was a bit tough stringing it to brace comfortably and it just felt too heavy to pull repeatedly for practicing... i settled for #55@27" in the end....

Let me know how it looks?

[mikekeswick]

Tite bond 2 works good for tips

Nah... takes too long to dry. Industrial strength CA glue is strong and quick.

Whatever who cares how long it takes to dry

Me 
Superglue all the way.

[mikekeswick]

When those checks appeared in the back of your stave after heating that was a 100% definate sign that your stave had too much moisture in it. What you should have done is left it to dry for a while and maybe used a hot box.
The moisture content of a stave is determined by the temperature and releative humidity of where it has been stored. Time isn't really relavent...it could have been cut 20 years ago but if it had sat those 20 years out in my workshop (for example) it still wouldn't have been down below 13 -15 % moisture content because of the combination of temperature and RH here. To get my wood bow making dry I have to hot box it or bring it inside. Bow wood needs to be below 12% preferably closer to 9 -10% as a general rule.
Look at this table  http://www.csgnetwork.com/emctablecalc.html
Personally I would put your bow in a hot box for a couple of days and then recheck the weight to make sure it's still where you want it eg. 55#   
I would also highly recommend you get a good finish to put on your bow. Hemp oil won't protect it very well at all. Yatch varnishes are normally very good but thin the first couple of coats (normally with white spirit).
All in all your bow looks great for your 2nd!
Well done 

[BowEd]

Patience,patience,patience.

[PEARL DRUMS]

When those checks appeared in the back of your stave after heating that was a 100% definate sign that your stave had too much moisture in it. What you should have done is left it to dry for a while and maybe used a hot box.
The moisture content of a stave is determined by the temperature and releative humidity of where it has been stored. Time isn't really relavent...it could have been cut 20 years ago but if it had sat those 20 years out in my workshop (for example) it still wouldn't have been down below 13 -15 % moisture content because of the combination of temperature and RH here. To get my wood bow making dry I have to hot box it or bring it inside. Bow wood needs to be below 12% preferably closer to 9 -10% as a general rule.
Look at this table  http://www.csgnetwork.com/emctablecalc.html
Personally I would put your bow in a hot box for a couple of days and then recheck the weight to make sure it's still where you want it eg. 55#   
I would also highly recommend you get a good finish to put on your bow. Hemp oil won't protect it very well at all. Yatch varnishes are normally very good but thin the first couple of coats (normally with white spirit).
All in all your bow looks great for your 2nd!
Well done 

EXCELLENT info Mike.

[WillS]

Might just be me, but it looks as though it's taken a fair bit of set already.  I don't know if the stave was deflexed at all, but if it wasn't, and that is string follow already, what mike said is even more appropriate.  The moisture level may have been the reason for the string follow as compared to tillering mistakes.  In fact your tiller looks good at brace and the unstrung profile doesn't show areas of set, rather it's spread over the whole bow which to me suggests high moisture.

I may be totally wrong, and overall your bow looks ace, very clean and nicely finished with a great shape.  It might just be worth clamping it up with a hint of reflex and leaving for a few days or a week to ensure it will be as punchy as it could be!

[BowEd]

Go back to reply # 29 of osage stave arriving.

[Tom Leemans]

Looks nice! Hero pic?

[adb]

Yah, can't wait to see the money shot!

[IdahoMatt]

Great job for your second bow man.  Can't wait to see the full draw . 

[blackhawk]

That's a pretty good second bow....and ya got some good advice on what to do better next time