Hophornbeam static recurve help

[Blaflair2]

Yeah yeah I know a static recurve is t the beat plan for my second self bow. But I'm hooked on the static recurve, so I don't care if I mess it up a million times. I gotta make one. I have this and a hickory stave. Hopefully one makes it! With the help of everyone here. I would greatly appreciate it. LF 50-55# @ 30" just to be safe. I'm 6'4" and the stave is taller than me. So I know it's in there. Just gotta free it. I'd like it to be about 60" or somewhere near there. So any dimension suggestions? I was thinking 2" to 1/2" pyramid style. I figure a working handle to make it a little shorter. Let me know if I'm nuts, well I know I'm nuts, so what yas think?

[Blaflair2]

Also not all the bark is off. I know 

[Joec123able]

So you want a 60 inch static recurve at 30 inch draw for your second self bow ? Ughhh good luck You are going to have to go longer then that no question

[1442]

I would make wider limbs out farther from the handle to minimize set. you gonna need a lot of bend in the mid section and set will be your biggest hurdle in my mind,  I've never built a static recurve actualy so...

[Zion]

You should probably give it a few more inches in length, 64- 66" would shoot fine and would be less likely to fail.

[Weylin]

60" - 8" (handle and fades) = 52"/2=26" That tells you that a 60" bow with a normal handle and straight limbs should comfortably give you a 26" draw if it's well designed and tillered. Adding static recurves will substatially reduce the effective working portion of the limbs (not sure by how much exactly) reducing the safe draw length even further. You could, of course make it a bend through the handle which would give you back 4" of safe draw length on the straight limbed design making 30" doable but still not with recurves. A good sinew backing on the bend through the handle, static recurve could possibly tip the balance back in your favor but I think that's a tall order for a second bow. I really recommend building some simpler designs to get the hang of tillering or at least make it longer like Joe said. Good luck.

[bubby]

60" - 8" (handle and fades) = 52"/2=26" That tells you that a 60" bow with a normal handle and straight limbs should comfortably give you a 26" draw if it's well designed and tillered. Adding static recurves will substatially reduce the effective working portion of the limbs (not sure by how much exactly) reducing the safe draw length even further. You could, of course make it a bend through the handle which would give you back 4" of safe draw length on the straight limbed design making 30" doable but still not with recurves. A good sinew backing on the bend through the handle, static recurve could possibly tip the balance back in your favor but I think that's a tall order for a second bow. I really recommend building some simpler designs to get the hang of tillering or at least make it longer like Joe said. Good luck.


I told him the exact thing on the board bow weylin, I think  he's got glass bow syndrome with what all he wants, lets see what he can do

[Pappy]

60 inches at 30 draw,to short as the others said,but you said you didn't care if it took a million so go for it.  I'm sure some will chime in and say they do it all the time, but for me it would have to be 64/66 at least for that draw.
   Pappy

[Blaflair2]

I'm willing to make it longer. Like 64" sound good? It is gonna be a bendy handle. I've searched around an ppl were making a 56" static @ 29" draw. But I didn't bookmark it  like I said I'd like help with the dimensions and stuff. That was just my idea but that's y I asked. I'm getting over my glassituss but I really want a static to hunt with. So I figure I gotta try. So would 2.5" wide be ok? Should I not go for a pyramid style? I'm gong to finish the bark and then start laying it out tonight. So if like to figure out the dimensions. I don't really want it that wide. But if everyone thinks its more doable then I will. Nothing is set in stone yet. Just looking for ideas that can help me. Thanks. In sure it won't work. But maybe it will.

[Pappy]

I would go at least 64 66 even better,1 3/4 to 1 7/8 inches at the fads to about mid limb,then tapper to the tip. You probably will have to steam or boil the tips to get a static bend in the Hickory,it will more than likely break or at least pop up a bad splinter if you try it with heat. As far as someone making one on pp or here for that matter,no one said it couldn't be done,just tough to do and especially for a beginner That's all we were saying. Trying to save you a little heart ache. If you go 2 or more  wide/that short in length and that long a draw for the weight you want it is going to be very very thin and if the tiller ant prefect it will fret,almost guaranteed ,again tough for a beginner. Now go have some fun.
   Pappy

[Joec123able]

I'm willing to make it longer. Like 64" sound good? It is gonna be a bendy handle. I've searched around an ppl were making a 56" static @ 29" draw. But I didn't bookmark it  like I said I'd like help with the dimensions and stuff. That was just my idea but that's y I asked. I'm getting over my glassituss but I really want a static to hunt with. So I figure I gotta try. So would 2.5" wide be ok? Should I not go for a pyramid style? I'm gong to finish the bark and then start laying it out tonight. So if like to figure out the dimensions. I don't really want it that wide. But if everyone thinks its more doable then I will. Nothing is set in stone yet. Just looking for ideas that can help me. Thanks. In sure it won't work. But maybe it will.

Yea and almost all of those short static recurves are Osage backed with sinew

[Newindian]

You realize what recurves mostly do to a bow is make them look cool, they don't really have much of an advantage over other designs

[PEARL DRUMS]

I cant agree with you on that Newindian. You'd have to either build, or shoot a true static to feel the difference. Are they faster? Not always. Is the early string tension much higher? You bet it is. Does that matter? It sure does. Shoot one and you will see the difference is more than appearance or coolness. I promise I wouldn't spend the time on them I do if coolness was the only factor. Its last on my list of pre-req's.

[Don Case]

Is the idea behind recurves to effectively lengthen and shorten the bow as it is drawn and released? I'm thinking that would put more power at the end of the stroke. Kind of like a wheelie(puttuiee) bow.
Don

[PEARL DRUMS]

It would seem that way Don.