Planning a Mollegabet board bow...planning.

[HighlandRanger]

OK, so I am in the planning stages of making my first real board bow. I made a practice mollegabet build a few months ago that turned out ok that was made out of a red oak board. This time I am looking at making one out of a hickory board.

I just have a couple of questions.

• If I make it out of Hickory, would you still back it? And if so, with what?
• I have seen some carve the backs of their bows like these: Mollegabet Yeager Bau / carved and painted / (not for bom), ORM KOSS / Carved Mollegabet for Wolfsongforge.... How is this done without compromising the grain? Obviously these are not backed, or if they are, another type of wood?
• Lastly, I have seen some do a hybrid type by adding a recurve to the levers of the mollegabet. Thoughts on this?

When I'm done with this I would like to have it for hunting with about a #60@28"

Any thoughts or recommendations?

[HighlandRanger]

Anyone have any input? Would really appreciate it!

[twisted hickory]

I haven't made alot of bows. Only up to 12 so far. I have made a couple of molly type bows. They are tricky to tiller. If you are new to building a self bow I suggest a pyramid design or parallel limbs to mid point then taper to half inch nocks. You might have a better time with those styles.
There are others who have made many more bows and will chime in I would imagine.
Greg

[HighlandRanger]

I am actually pretty set on doing a molly. I have never been one to start easy. That being said, any answers or suggestions to my questions above?

Thanks

[koan]

I havent built a molly yet but have some of the same questions you do... On a side note, im not sure a recurved molly is a "hybred"... I was just visiting the Greyson Collection today and saw an ancient recurve molly on display. It did have light carving on the back and i would geuss the limbs to be almost 5" wide. They are currently changing their displays and had not put the info up for that bow yet so i dont know full details yet... Brian

[Joec123able]

You first link up there, half eye answered how he did the carving

[blackhawk]

If your dead set on it,then just make your first few being straight without reflexed/curved levers..but what do I know about a molly   

[Blaflair2]

I totally understand just wanting to go for it. But don't just dismiss the knowledge of everyone on this site. Just my $.02

[HighlandRanger]

Sorry, I didn't mean to just dismiss anyone. I am sorry if I came across as such.

[mikekeswick]

You are looking for perfectly straight grain if you want the bow to be unbacked.
If the grain isn't the best then back it with some rawhide first.
The best bet is to keep it straight to begin with and forget about adding any reflex.
Learning how to tiller full stop is the hard thing. Once you understand the process and that as wood gets thinner it can and should be bending more are the things that take a awhile to sink in. However once you understand then any bow is the same to tiller.
BH - why do you keep saying but what do I know? Everyone understands you can make a good molly. This chap could obviously learn a lot from your advise. False modesty n all that?

[lesken2011]

I know there are several guys on here that have made successful mollys including Half Eye and Blackhawk. For my first successful one I followed ADBs holmgard build a long which has very detailed step by step instructions. My first one out of red oak wasn't successful, but my second with rawhide backed white oak was. He uses osage in the build a long and the dimensions for white wood are a little different. You can pm him for details on building with white wood or I will be glad to share mine with you. His build a long is at this link. http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php?topic=5129.0

[HighlandRanger]

Thanks for the info everyone. That is some great advice. I am starting to put together some ideas and will post as I progress.

[HighlandRanger]

If I make the bow from hickory, then what would be a good backing to pair up with it?

[blackhawk]

Since its your first bow and first molly I would go 68" ntn...2" wide parallel limbs up to the levers.8" handle/fade section..and make the levers a third of the total limb length(counting from where the limb starts working..ie the fade to tip) which in your case would be 30" long per individual limb total length..and make the levers 10" long.....its a lil overbuilt but your first dozen or so bows need to be started with overbuilt intentions until you get better at tillering etc....and that should get you your intended stats.

If your hickory is chosen wisely with good enough grain it don't need a backing...but if ya must rawhide would be the best for you and your experience level(None) IMO...

[HighlandRanger]

Thanks for the advice! I really appreciate it... looking at maybe getting started this weekend! My 14yo son is also excited, so we may do a co-build. Each of us building a bow at the same time.

Since its your first bow and first molly I would go 68" ntn...2" wide parallel limbs up to the levers.8" handle/fade section..and make the levers a third of the total limb length(counting from where the limb starts working..ie the fade to tip) which in your case would be 30" long per individual limb total length..and make the levers 10" long.....its a lil overbuilt but your first dozen or so bows need to be started with overbuilt intentions until you get better at tillering etc....and that should get you your intended stats.

If your hickory is chosen wisely with good enough grain it don't need a backing...but if ya must rawhide would be the best for you and your experience level(None) IMO...