Yes nclonghunter is right about quebracho[very fine brown powder] in the Van dykes Taxidermy catalog.I've mentioned that on here before,and that a pickling agent[pickling salt] added will help the pentration.Check the penetration by cutting a sliver of hide off at the thickest area.If it's penetrated through there[there will be a color change] it's done.Epidermis does not have to be removed but to get penetration from both sides of the leather will get the hide done quicker.Don't worry about leaving it in too long.It'll be ok.You add a little more each week to keep the potentcy of your solution up.I've had Van Dykes updated catalog since the 1980s'.Did an elk hide & cow hide back then.It's a good one.The oil used on bark tanned hide during drying most times is the neats foot oil 100% stuff[expensive stuff kinda].It can be applied while it's drying.It will meld and mix with water and replace the water moisture that leaves to leave you a nice supple soft hide.You can apply it with a paint brush or try to help it and rub it in.The leather will sqeak like saddle leather when dried.Be careful not to use too much though.You will be left with a too oily hide.That's what I had success with.
The bark tan process takes a lot longer than doing a brain tanned hide,but I've used my home done bark tan[cow hide 1/8" thick] for dog leads coonhunting and other things and they can take a lot of punishment.Getting wet countless times.Staying supple and holding it's strength.
