red oak handle problem (fixed)

[turtle]

This is a red oak board bow 66 ttt around 50@27    60/40 molly. Had about 50 arrows thru it when the handle popped.Not sure why and was wondering what you all think the best option for repair is. Maybe handle is too narrow?Its just over 3/4 wide.

[Dauntless]

You could try regluing then drilling some holes and fill them with dowels. The reason the handle popped off is because your base bow is bending at the fades a little bit. You did leave more wood under the riser but it is still bending because that extra wood doesn't extend past the fades.

[bow101]

Or ya cood take it off and glue on another piece. Open up the crevice a little get some glue in it,    worth a quick try.

[hbbows]

both good suggestions, I might even add a sinew wrap on each end

[kevinsmith5]

I've used Quick setting epoxy on a handle like that (3200 psi), but the previous posters are right. The core of the bow is bending. You might try epoxying a thin (1/8") piece on the back that extends slightly past the fades. That could strengthen the handle.

[Pat B]

The reason it popped off is your handle area of the bow is bending when you draw. You can reglue it and add sinew wrap on each fade or remove that riser and make up a riser with multi layers of thin wood strips. This kind of handle flexes a bit so it has a better chance of not poping loose. You could also replace the wood handle with heavy leather saturated with super glue. This type handle will flex more than the bow.

[turtle]

Thanks for the replies guys. I popped it the rest of the way off, cleaned it up and reglued it. I was planning to put a hemp cord wrap on the handle already. I will also wrap both fades also and see how it holds. I like the idea of i thin strip on the back that extends a lityle past the fades but the bow is rawhide backed and i dont know how that would work over rawhide. I had floor tillered and heat treated the bow before i glued on the riser and cut out the handle but i was carefull not to remove any wood where the riser was going to go, but i did see that the bow was slightly charred right where the handled started to pop. Anyway thanks again and i will post the end results either way.

[Hamish]

What glue did you use? Not all glues are equal to the task. You need a glue with a rigid glue line, like urac, resorcinol, or some slow setting epoxies(many epoxies are not up to it).

[turtle]

What glue did you use? Not all glues are equal to the task. You need a glue with a rigid glue line, like urac, resorcinol, or some slow setting epoxies(many epoxies are not up to it).

Tite bond II. I use it for most everything.

[bubby]

tight bond 2 is plenty of glue, I seldom use anything else for glue ups, even try lams and r/d bows

[Hamish]

Titebond is a good glue, especially for full length lams. It can be a problem (as in your case)if the belly wood is not deep enough at the fades to prevent flexing. Glues that dry to a glass hard glue line don't usually suffer from lifting. PVAs unfortunatly don't dry as hard, and are relatively rubbery in comparison.

[turtle]

I glued the handle back on. Wrapped the whole handle riser with kite string and soaked in super glue. Then wrapped both fades with dogbane cord and the handle with hemp cord and soaked the cord with thinned tite bond2. Have around 50 arrows thru her with no problems yet. Will take it to the classic next week and if it survives i will do a full post on it. If not i will post the failure here.

[lesken2011]

Nice job. I like the 2-tone look, too!!

[Hamish]

I don't think there will be any more problems now its wrapped at the fades.
     

[turtle]

Nice job. I like the 2-tone look, too!!

Thanks, i didnt have enough of either to do the whole thing or i would have. But i realy like the two tones myself.