Author Topic: cedar shafts  (Read 5891 times)

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Offline anasazi

  • Member
  • Posts: 144
cedar shafts
« on: April 14, 2013, 08:29:55 pm »
I was talking with a old friend the other day who said shoot shafts ( choke cherry and red osier) would have a hard time staying straight in a quiver and don't do to well with draw weights in the 50# and 60# range he mentioned using cedar instead. What are your thoughts on this and could split cedar fence rails work?  Its always good to get multiple opinions i think. Thanks for the help

Offline lostarrow

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,348
Re: cedar shafts
« Reply #1 on: April 14, 2013, 10:17:15 pm »
50-60 is where most of my shoot shafts wind up. Haven't had any more problems with shoots staying straight than cedar. Maybe his shoots weren't dry enough? The remarkable thing is that most of the old bows were probably in the 40-70# range. Comfortable to shoot. Strong enough for big game ,and it's easy to find shoot shafts to match them  for spine. Just my observation.Every thing you really need is usually right in front of you. ;)

Offline Pat B

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 37,604
Re: cedar shafts
« Reply #2 on: April 15, 2013, 12:07:48 am »
My shoot shafts spine heavy but because of their natural taper they shoot in lighter weight bows. A well seasoned shoot shaft will stay as straight as any other shafting. If durability makes a difference, there is no comparison between cedars and hardwood shoots like red osier. Hardwood shoot arrows win hands down.  ;)
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline anasazi

  • Member
  • Posts: 144
Re: cedar shafts
« Reply #3 on: April 15, 2013, 10:44:39 am »
That kinda falls in line with what i was thinking from reading other posts thanks for the input.

Have any of you tried grooving your shafts and does it help any with keeping them straight or is it just medicine?

Offline Pat B

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 37,604
Re: cedar shafts
« Reply #4 on: April 15, 2013, 11:01:40 am »
I've grooved a few and didn't notice any difference over similar ungrooved shoots but on some viburnums I made a few years ago the grooves did help keep them straight. If the shoots are prone to not staying straight I would groove them.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline Thesquirrelslinger

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,245
Re: cedar shafts
« Reply #5 on: April 15, 2013, 04:59:43 pm »
I've grooved a few and didn't notice any difference over similar ungrooved shoots but on some viburnums I made a few years ago the grooves did help keep them straight. If the shoots are prone to not staying straight I would groove them.
What do you mean by grooving them and how do you do it?
"Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results"

Offline twisted hickory

  • Member
  • Posts: 375
Re: cedar shafts
« Reply #6 on: April 15, 2013, 11:45:03 pm »
I am shooting red osier shafts out of a 64 lb hickory bow with no problems. They are just  tad over 5/16 at the point end and right at 5/16 on the nock end and 30 inches long. After they are dried out good they stay as straight as cedar. Plus they are quite a bit more durable. I have a matched set for my 51 lb hickory long bow as well. I have broken most of the cedar shafts for the 51 lb bow. Red osier in a 5/16 size spine heavier than cedar does of the same size indicating a more dense/harder wood. ;)
Can't beat red osier for hunting or stumping with. :)
Greg

Offline Pat B

  • Administrator
  • Member
  • Posts: 37,604
Re: cedar shafts
« Reply #7 on: April 16, 2013, 12:22:49 am »
Cedar makes great arrows but they are not durable and will break at the drop of a hat. I've made lots of cedar arrows over the years but since I started using hardwood shoots and cane I haven't bought any more cedar.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline BowEd

  • Member
  • Posts: 9,390
  • BowEd
Re: cedar shafts
« Reply #8 on: April 16, 2013, 07:34:14 am »
Bare shaft tuning my dogwoods leave me with an arrow that flys like a dart [clean], hits home hard,and more durable compared to cedar,fir,&spruce.Just get enough shafts together drying and straightening then you'll always have some around.I shoot mine at ranges with guys shooting carbons all the time.Their plastic nocks always breaking and their screw in tips not tight enough making noise up the ying yang.It's a bit of an art making nice dogwoods.No need for grooves either.They stay straight.Like Pat B said those and cane are the best.
BowEd
You got to stand for something or you'll fall for anything.
Ed

Offline twisted hickory

  • Member
  • Posts: 375
Re: cedar shafts
« Reply #9 on: April 16, 2013, 03:15:45 pm »
Bare shaft tuning my dogwoods leave me with an arrow that flys like a dart [clean], hits home hard,and more durable compared to cedar,fir,&spruce.Just get enough shafts together drying and straightening then you'll always have some around.I shoot mine at ranges with guys shooting carbons all the time.Their plastic nocks always breaking and their screw in tips not tight enough making noise up the ying yang.It's a bit of an art making nice dogwoods.No need for grooves either.They stay straight.Like Pat B said those and cane are the best.
+1
After making and shooting a dozen spined correctly for your bow you won't go back to cedar. ;)
Greg

Offline Thesquirrelslinger

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,245
Re: cedar shafts
« Reply #10 on: April 16, 2013, 05:25:24 pm »
Here is why ceder is popular- it smells good, is light, and is easy to work.
Sitka spruce is stronger, light, but it don't smell as good.
Black locust is heavy, VERY strong, and does not smell good.

I like BL and cane shafts because I can go shooting and not worry about a shaft breaking.
Ceder seems too weak and soft for anything IMO.
"Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results"

Offline twisted hickory

  • Member
  • Posts: 375
Re: cedar shafts
« Reply #11 on: April 16, 2013, 06:07:20 pm »
Here is why ceder is popular- it smells good, is light, and is easy to work.
Sitka spruce is stronger, light, but it don't smell as good.
Black locust is heavy, VERY strong, and does not smell good.

I like BL and cane shafts because I can go shooting and not worry about a shaft breaking.
Ceder seems too weak and soft for anything IMO.
I just cut a locust tree down about a month ago and have 7 large staves. I am going to make a half dozen and see what they do. Ya otta post a build along ;)

Offline Thesquirrelslinger

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,245
Re: cedar shafts
« Reply #12 on: April 16, 2013, 07:28:16 pm »
Here is why ceder is popular- it smells good, is light, and is easy to work.
Sitka spruce is stronger, light, but it don't smell as good.
Black locust is heavy, VERY strong, and does not smell good.

I like BL and cane shafts because I can go shooting and not worry about a shaft breaking.
Ceder seems too weak and soft for anything IMO.
I just cut a locust tree down about a month ago and have 7 large staves. I am going to make a half dozen and see what they do. Ya otta post a build along ;)
Dude, ive got locust coming out of my ears.
I am currently working with 4 elm staves, an elm bow(its about half tillered) and a nearly done ro board bow...
:)
"Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results"

Offline anasazi

  • Member
  • Posts: 144
Re: cedar shafts
« Reply #13 on: April 17, 2013, 02:26:32 pm »
Guess i better cut some dogwood shafts next time i find some untill then ill keep up with the choke cherry
Thanks for all the advise

Offline twisted hickory

  • Member
  • Posts: 375
Re: cedar shafts
« Reply #14 on: April 17, 2013, 03:07:14 pm »
If you cut some red osier it is better to get the shafts a bit on the larger size. The larger shoots seem to be straighter and are a little more stiff. I like them half inch at the big end to start with with the bark on them. Then plane them down to the size you want. For 50 lbs 5/16 at the point end works for me 5/16 at the nock end 28.5 to back of point, 125 gr point weight. They are just a hair over 10gpp. For the shafts for my 64 lb bow they are 11/32 at the point end and 5/16 at the nock end with 160 gr points. The arrows for 64 lb bow are 11gpp and arrow length is 29.5 back of point. I want the 64 lb arrows to have lots of mass to facilitate good pass thru on deer and such. The 64 pound arrows might be just a tad soft in spine but nothing of any concern at 25 yards. (Nothing wrong with 50 lb either they will blow right thru a deers vitals as well.)


Hope this helps with you. ;)
Greg