Hazelnut bow build-a-long (fixed pictures)

[RT]

Great build-along Gordon, I have learnt much from the pic and description on your threat.

I too have started a threat a few days back, I am building a raw Boo belly backed with raw boo backing, I just got it to get on the short string brace at 4" last night, more tillering from here on.

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,3910.0.html

[Gordon]

Paul,

I pretty much just stand back and eyeball the tiller. That's because a lot of the bows I make are from vine maple and the profile is typically too uneven to use any kind of reference tool.

Gordon

[DanaM]

Thats good news Gordon I just can't stand to see a man drinking a beer with a twist of lemon
 Keep up the good work.

[wanabehunter]

thats one sweet looking bow 

[Jbell]

This is a great buildalong Gordon, Keep it coming. I really like the profile so far, ought to be a great shooter.

[Gordon]

Jbell, I plan on working on the bow this weekend and hope to post new pics on Sunday.

I'm glad you all seem to be enjoying the build-a-long.

[huntinoly]

Great post Gordon, I am taking notes on this one. Greg

[Bent Rig]

 I like the process on getting the string centered on the handle , I have a bow I'm working on now that needs a little help in that area , didn't know how I was going to do it , but thanks to you - I have a good idea ! Thanks Gordon   

[juniper junkie]

thanks for the sharing, I like the jig for inducing the reflex and tip curves. are you going to back the bow with anything?

[Gordon]

Dave,

The gentleman I am building this for would like a snakeskin back. I'll put silk beneath the skins to give the bow an extra measure of safety.

Gordon

[Gordon]

Once the bow is bending well I try to get the bow as close to final dimensions as possible so that by the time I hit weight and draw length there is no more wood to be removed. I begin by narrowing the tips to ½”.



I’m ready to install overlays. I make a mark 1” back from the nock and then draw a line from the back to halfway between the belly and back. I will remove the wood from above the line to create a beveled surface for the overlay.

[Gordon]

I use a small file to flatten the bevel.



The overlays are from some scrap hardware flooring and are cut to 2” x ½” x ½”. The blocks are flattened and then the ends beveled on the belt sander.

[Gordon]

I rough up the surfaces with a toothing plane blade in preparation to gluing.





The overlays are glued to the tips with 5-minute epoxy and clamped.

[Gordon]

After the epoxy has cured I narrow the tips to their final width of 7/16”.





I then use a small carving file to shape the overlays.

[Gordon]

The groves are re-cut with a small rattail file.



I make the groves meet at a point at the top of the overlay.



Then I cut across both groves to create a nice even arc.