Question on osage im working on.

[ionicmuffin]

So ive got this osage stave here and ive chased it down to one ring. the only part im mildly concerned about is that at near the tip there is a spot where it has been cut donw to the next ring. Im thinking i may be able to avoid chasing another ring and just lay out the bow so it doesnt even have that in it. The width at that point is 2 inches and the spot is a quarter inch wide. the spot is 3.5 inches from the tip of the stave

[Pat B]

Lay your bow out in the best part of the stave. If the violation is inside the bows outline chase another ring. If you cut the bow out to the back profile there is a lot less wood to remove while chasing the ring.

[PEARL DRUMS]

I see plenty of tear outs as well. I would go down one more. Circle each and every pin and knot you see with a 1" circle. Be sure to always leave that 1" circle visible. Come back later and work around each, one at a time. 

[Badly Bent]

If its 2' wide at 3.5'' from tip you have plenty of width there to lay out and avoid that violated ring. Just layout your back profile lines, following the grain of course, and since the violation is on the edge you should be able to avoid it. With osage the final bow width at just 3 or 4 inches from the tip could be as small as 1" or even much less depending on design.

[ionicmuffin]

there might be a few, but i would like to let you know that the back of the stave was a deep brown gold because it was around 6 years seasoned.

[ionicmuffin]

Anyway, since this is looking like a good stave, and its around 66 inches long, i wanted to do a pretty sharp static recurves, one that is around 50# @ 26" and 60# @ 29" also, i don't mind it being bend in the handle. I am wondering what kind of width i should be going for and also what length i should go for, im fine with keeping it the same length if that would be best.

[ionicmuffin]

and also what design?

[PEARL DRUMS]

Honestly? Keep it right where it is length wise. Make the bow 1 1/2" wide and keep it straight and simple. 

[ionicmuffin]

so what your saying is just to leave i the way it is and not add recurves? what about any bits of reflex? i suppose i dont need any of it, and because its osage it should take very little set anyway at those dimensions.

[Pappy]

It should be fine,I would probably chase another ring,no good reason just don't mind that much and can't stand to know I missed one.   Where it's at shouldn't be a problem. Don't know so much about flipping the tips in that curve but I would at least add a little reflex,tip alignment can get a little tricky is curves that close to the tip but for sure doable if that's what you want.
   Pappy

[ionicmuffin]

Good! i think ill take this one slow and just do one step here one step there. no need to rush my only osage 

[PEARL DRUMS]

I just want to see one hold together for you and a straight or slightly reflexed bow is a good start for that to happen. It will shoot just fine if you do your job right. Bows dont need flipped tips and recurves to shoot just dandy.

[ionicmuffin]

i guess that very true, any they hunt just fine as well im sure. Did i mention that i might have a nice load of plumb coming in?  i do, but ive got to get this monster log split and cut. but im getting sidetracked. So 1.5 inches wide at the length it is with a bit of reflex (3-4 inches on a caul?) does that sound good?

[ionicmuffin]

OH and while im at it, you said 1 inch around the pin knot. does that mean 1 inch radius around the pin knot or 1 inch diameter?

[PEARL DRUMS]

Is what just a measurement I tossed out. Basically your knifing around any pins or knots and coming back later to clean each one up. Those little tear outs come from running your knife over a pin. I just make a heavy pencil circle around each area, then start in with my knife. Some staves dont rip out easily and you can tear it right off in minutes, others need love.