Quite frustrated with myself. Firewood or bow?

[ionicmuffin]

so i was working on my trade bow for the board bow trade, and it was going great! then i got it all set in terms of tiller and i was satisfied with it, but it had about 2 inches of set. so i went and tried to flip the tips... and thats where is screwed up big time  . still shoots, although if i were to send it out id want to shoot it about 400 times at minimum before i was willing to send it out. Even so i dont know, they are small cracks at the tips, i dont like the look, not sure what i will do, i can just start a new one if nothing else. the lines represent the cracks.

[MWirwicki]

Are those cracks at the back or belly?  I suspect the belly.  The wood seems a bit thick for bending without consequence.  If on the belly then since the string will be pulling it closed tighter, its generally not an issue accept for asthetics.  Often, it cracks at the surface growth ring and by the time the bow is finished, you get past it.  Other times not, but I've squeezed cyano glue the best that I can and they've all held up.  At times I've even done a sinew bandaid or colored thread wrapping around the crack for decoration.  Since you're giving the bow to someone else, you'll have to make a judgement call as to longevity and reliability sake after your reinforcement session.

[ionicmuffin]

what you said makes sense, im going to get some superglue and fill in those cracks. why do you think it cracked? i was using dry heat.

[toomanyknots]

If they are on the belly it is probably fixable. Was it hard to bend when you bent it? Bending a limb should be rather easy, and not still hard. Wait until it is pliable and bendable before you bend it. If it is still pretty hard, it still needs some time steaming, or needs to be heated more. Although this can still easily happen even then.

[half eye]

I have not seen the bow. But have done that before, believe everybody has. Int the furture make sure ya got the belly (in that area) sanded pretty smooth. The rasp marks make the tension crack easy to start.

Having said that it prefectly good because it's like Matt said. Pump in some super glue and clamp it down with a spring clamp. By the time you are finished with the final sanding it will not be very visible.....and it will not be weak. Passing it on as a gift is your choice, but the bow will be solid, so if aint nobody wants it send it to me and I'll kill the hell out them deer.
rich

[Zion]

I've had bows with chrysals and none of them have broken yet, so i think you shouldn't worry much. I'd also do what MWirwicki says.

[ionicmuffin]

sounds like a plan, ill put the superglue in and shoot the hell out of it. if it holds then i think ill send it.

[paulsemp]

I've done that many times and what the guys are telling you is right on. You were complaining about set and the one thing I wanted to throw out there is I never use a tree that far along in tiller. For a bow that I draw to 26" I don't hook it on the tree pasted 20". Even at 20" it is only for a second. Hooking it and taking a picture probably takes 5+ seconds minimum. To me I would think that would kill you in potential set. The last 25 percent of draw I tiller based of how it feels in my hand and balance. The last 1" or so is based on hand shock. I never saw my bows at full draw until I took pics to post on here. Many ways to skin a cat but that is how I do it.

[ionicmuffin]

so i just go by feel? what about a mirior? i think id need visuals for a while.

[paulsemp]

I do believe that good tiller should reflect evenly bent limbs but I also believe just cause it looks good does not mean it shoots well. I find myself getting caught up in perfect visuals for that perfect looking full draw shot. Don't get me wrong I like visuals too. When you are doing final tiller pay attention when you draw it (with a proper nock point) if it favors one side or another.  You should be able to feel if one limb is stronger than the other. 

[ionicmuffin]

ill have to try tillering a bow that way, in fact, ill do my next one that way.

[SLIMBOB]

Nothing past 15-16" on the tree for me.  If it's good at brace height, and good at 16" it will be awful close the rest of the way.  It's pics for me beyond that, pulling for just a second to full draw before letting up.