Author Topic: 46" American Elm/ 42# @ 26" / Eastern Woodland  (Read 5747 times)

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Offline Traxx

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Re: 46" American Elm/ 42# @ 26" / Eastern Woodland
« Reply #30 on: February 13, 2013, 03:33:59 pm »
Rich,
As the old sayin goes,You can learn somethin from anyone.Who knows,i may like your way better and the Fewer tools thing,is always a plus in my book.
Lookin forward to it.

Offline aero86

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Re: 46" American Elm/ 42# @ 26" / Eastern Woodland
« Reply #31 on: February 13, 2013, 04:46:01 pm »
ok, so, ill give you my address and shipping for when your ready to send it my way. lol. nice work!!
profsaffel  "clogs like the devil" I always figured Lucifer to be more of a disco kind of guy.

Offline H Rhodes

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Re: 46" American Elm/ 42# @ 26" / Eastern Woodland
« Reply #32 on: February 13, 2013, 09:48:31 pm »
I am late getting in on this one but, WOW!  You got all the bend out of that little sucker Rich.  I know what you mean about elm - I think it likes to be a little wider than than that ironwood you've been working with.  That one looks awesome and I am gonna echo what has already been said about your posting a build along.  I would sure like to see it.  You make a great bow brother.  That one you sent me is still flinging arrows just fine.  ;)
Howard
Gautier, Mississippi

Offline half eye

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Re: 46" American Elm/ 42# @ 26" / Eastern Woodland
« Reply #33 on: February 13, 2013, 09:58:39 pm »
Thanks again fellas...Howard it's started....I got me a Hrodes special that shoots real good as well.
rich

Offline tattoo dave

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Re: 46" American Elm/ 42# @ 26" / Eastern Woodland
« Reply #34 on: February 13, 2013, 11:09:51 pm »
That's one awesome bow my friend!! You did it again!

Tattoo Dave
Rockford, MI

Offline KellyG

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Re: 46" American Elm/ 42# @ 26" / Eastern Woodland
« Reply #35 on: February 14, 2013, 12:19:07 am »
That is amazing! and it is not even a bend in the handle style. Now the finish I would like to know more about it. Never heard of a pitch grease finish. How do you make it if you don't mind me asking?

Offline bubby

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Re: 46" American Elm/ 42# @ 26" / Eastern Woodland
« Reply #36 on: February 14, 2013, 06:25:01 am »
I've got some of that special sauce pine pitchgrease finish and I love that stuff, works great and smells good
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
The few the proud the 27🏹

Offline Pappy

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Re: 46" American Elm/ 42# @ 26" / Eastern Woodland
« Reply #37 on: February 14, 2013, 07:11:30 am »
 WOW,Now that's bending a short stick a long way,very nice job on that one. :)
   Pappy
Clarksville,Tennessee
TwinOaks Bowhunters
Life is Good

Offline half eye

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Re: 46" American Elm/ 42# @ 26" / Eastern Woodland
« Reply #38 on: February 14, 2013, 09:02:46 am »
Thank you fellas, I usually dont make stuff that short or pull that far really getting my "feetwet" on Ironwood in various stages of dead and standing, new, etc. Thanks Pappy.

What I use for finish is a "tweeked-down" version of the NA wood treatment in this area. They would have soaked the bow in bear or deer fat (liquified and hot) then "warmed near a fire" followed there after with coats of fat/beeswax and more fat every so often. The elders told me "it keeps the woods elasticity". I did not care for the feel of it and the wife wasn't wild about the smell in "her" house. So here is what I made and use.

I start with spruce gum (there's a lot of blue around here but I dont think the species matters). I'll melt that down till I got about half of a quart saucepan full and add into it about 2 cups of rendered fat (have also used crisco) I then add beeswax untill the stuff is a little stiffer than toothpaste when cool. The way I check that is take your stir stick and wipe some paper or carboard and when the smear is cool you can feel the consistency. When it's all done just set it aside for use when you want it.

How to apply: I use a small flat stick to spread it one the bow (1/2 at a time) then use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat up the goo. The wood will suck that stuff right up. Now buff the excess off with a rag and set it aside. In about 1/2 hour that bow should feel smooth and maybe slightly waxy but otherwise dry. Ya can repeat that a bunch of times if you want to but the hot stuff will only go in soo deep. After you are satisfied with the "feel" of the bow's surface give a coat of neutral shoepolish or mink oil boot treatment warm that and buff like shinnin shoes. The maintainance is to use the shoepolish as often as necessary to keep the bow from feeling "dry" to the touch. I do it every time I come in from hunting (shoe polish warmed with a dryer) but that might be overkill. Water, snow and ice.....no problem

no real big secret here fellas.
rich

Offline burn em up chuck

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Re: 46" American Elm/ 42# @ 26" / Eastern Woodland
« Reply #39 on: February 14, 2013, 09:29:56 am »
                  very cool bow, enjoying the whole thread. amazing what can be learned if you read the whole
            post.

                                                                                             chuck
Honored to say I'm a Member of the
         
                 Twin Oaks Bowhunters club

Offline Sidewinder

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Re: 46" American Elm/ 42# @ 26" / Eastern Woodland
« Reply #40 on: February 14, 2013, 11:03:03 am »
Rich you sure got those shorties down pat. great job on a sliver of a stick. Amazing is probabley more appropriate.   I will look forward to your post on how you tiller those little dudes.  Danny
"You know a tree by the fruit it bears"   God

Offline half eye

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Re: 46" American Elm/ 42# @ 26" / Eastern Woodland
« Reply #41 on: February 14, 2013, 12:11:10 pm »
That thread is in the how to section and is to the "its a bow stage. 8) I will post pics of putting the pitch/grease on her.
rich

Offline coaster500

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Re: 46" American Elm/ 42# @ 26" / Eastern Woodland
« Reply #42 on: February 14, 2013, 12:17:42 pm »
Thank you fellas, I usually dont make stuff that short or pull that far really getting my "feetwet" on Ironwood in various stages of dead and standing, new, etc. Thanks Pappy.

What I use for finish is a "tweeked-down" version of the NA wood treatment in this area. They would have soaked the bow in bear or deer fat (liquified and hot) then "warmed near a fire" followed there after with coats of fat/beeswax and more fat every so often. The elders told me "it keeps the woods elasticity". I did not care for the feel of it and the wife wasn't wild about the smell in "her" house. So here is what I made and use.

I start with spruce gum (there's a lot of blue around here but I dont think the species matters). I'll melt that down till I got about half of a quart saucepan full and add into it about 2 cups of rendered fat (have also used crisco) I then add beeswax untill the stuff is a little stiffer than toothpaste when cool. The way I check that is take your stir stick and wipe some paper or carboard and when the smear is cool you can feel the consistency. When it's all done just set it aside for use when you want it.

How to apply: I use a small flat stick to spread it one the bow (1/2 at a time) then use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat up the goo. The wood will suck that stuff right up. Now buff the excess off with a rag and set it aside. In about 1/2 hour that bow should feel smooth and maybe slightly waxy but otherwise dry. Ya can repeat that a bunch of times if you want to but the hot stuff will only go in soo deep. After you are satisfied with the "feel" of the bow's surface give a coat of neutral shoepolish or mink oil boot treatment warm that and buff like shinnin shoes. The maintainance is to use the shoepolish as often as necessary to keep the bow from feeling "dry" to the touch. I do it every time I come in from hunting (shoe polish warmed with a dryer) but that might be overkill. Water, snow and ice.....no problem

no real big secret here fellas.
rich

another recipe for the book :)
Inspiration, information and instruction by the ton and it's free,,, such a deal :)