Did my osage get too dry???

[StickMan47]

Hi guys, I have a couple of osage staves that I have been keeping in the house since I received them. They both still have the bark on them and were cut in October and November. Well I bought a cheap moisture meter (from local home improvement store) a few weeks ago to make sure the other staves (oak) I have were ready to work on. Just on a whim I checked the Osage staves today. I'm getting a 5-6% reading along the belly wood and 11-12% on the ends. The ends were sealed with polly at the time they were cut and split.

So my question is are these staves ruined? From all I have read I had the impression that it took awhile for Osage to dry. I'm in Southeast Texas and it's ususally pretty humid around here. I am guessing that running the heater in the house this winter was basically like having the staves in a big hot box!

So if they are too dry what is the best solution without hurting the wood? Or is there a chance that once I start roughing out the bows from these staves that the wood closer to the middle of the stave will not be as dry?

Thanks for any and all help.

[bowsandroses]

I don't know much about the science of woods and moisture, though I would'nt worry much about the wood getting to dry. I live in central Oregon and our weather is all but humid, I have had Osage stored for 7 years in a grain silo I recently made two bows of it, I am currently working on a third and see no problems with moisture. I think the only real important thing is to know your wood is completely cured. Don't take my word for it though some of these guys that know what there doing will chime in.

[Pat B]

If it is actually too dry you can rehydrate it. Take the stave down to rough bow size and check the moisture. Most moistures check only as deep as the pins go into the wood so the center probably has a higher reading. As long as you don't over stress it dryness isn't a problem.

[Will H]

Moisture meters work well for laminations and real thin wood projects but not for building selfbows. Get a thermometer with a rh meter. It's  all about a controlled environment. Here's a link to a thread on this subject along with a chart that will help you know how dry your wood is.
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,36790.msg484864.html#msg484864

[SLIMBOB]

I'd bet your staves are not too dry despite what the meter might say.  Store them horizontally up off the ground and they will equalize with the environment.  Fairly humid climate there, but indoors should be fine.

[DarkSoul]

If the tree was cut in October or November and split to staves immediately, the wood will be "partially air dried" at best - probably closer to green. A moisture meter only works on freshly exposed wood, since it will measure the MC at the surface of the pins, as has been explained by Pat. I don't depend on a moisture meter, nor would I recommend it. A rough stave of osage WILL take about one full year to dry. If you rough it out to near bow dimensions, the wood will be dry in three months or so.

In any case, if wood has been over dried, there is absolutely no need to worry. You can simply raise the moisture content of the wood by placing it in an environment with higher humidity and/or lower temperature for several weeks. But like I said; your wood will not be too dry.

[George Tsoukalas]

I agree that is likely still green. Most moisture meters give surface readings. The key to using one is to use it as you work the stave into a bow. It will dry faster too. Stop working when you get a reading greater than 10%. I prefer 8-10% for most woods including osage. Hickory works best 6-8%. I own a Mini Ligno and use it all the time. The relative humidity meters will work too but they involve a little bit of guess work. You assume the wood is ready when left a certain humidity. But your reading of 12% is empirically verifiable. It's there in front of you. Jawge

[Will H]

George I think the guess work can be taken out of the rh meter method if you use a scale and weigh the bow blank every day. When it stops losing weight for a few days you know it has equalized to the rh of it's environment. That's where that chart comes into play. I guess you might be a percent or 2 off but I think a moisture meter could have the same variable.

[StickMan47]

Thanks everyone for your input. I know I was prolly asking a rookie question (wait a minute I am a rookie, lol) but I am much relieved hearing it from all you with experience. I kinda figured the inside would have more mc than what I was getting from the outside, just wasn't sure. We had a few cold days here (barely around freezing, but COLD to me!!!) and I had the heat cranked up pretty good. I don't see how you northern clime fellers stand it. Give me 100 degree days anytime!!

So I take it from what was said by George that I can go ahead and rough these staves out anytime I get ready and then as the mc gets down to 8 to 10% start turnin em into arrow slingers? I'm not sure if what I been building so far qualifies as a "bow" yet.

Thanks again for ya'lls help and advice, it is greatly appreciated. Hopefully one day I can return the favor!

[blackhawk]

If you rough some down and chase a ring I would seal the back with shellac...it'll prob check if you don't seeing its still green wood basically

[George Tsoukalas]

Yes, Will H, if he couples those 2 methods together Stickman should be all set. Yes, go ahead and rough it out, Stickman. I don't favor shellac to seal the back but it is popular. If I think the back will check I go ahead and prepare the back right down to final sanding. If I intend to stain I do so on the back and then seal with 1 coat of my favorite sealer which is spar urethane. Saves me having to remove the shellac. Jawge

[tom sawyer]

Wood dries out at about an inch of thickness per year.  I don't think theres any way those staves are completely dry inside after a few months, especially with the bark and sapwood on them.  Maybe the outside centimeter but not the internal part.

I'd get that bark and sapwood off and chase a ring, that'll help them dry much faster.  Bark is great at holding in moisture.

[Pappy]

No matter where you kept it,Osage cut in November with the bark/sap wood still on ant to dry that's for sure. Never used a meter or weight much.You can usually tell when it's wet or to dry by the way the wood works. Lot of science in my bow building.    Good advice above on roughing it out and sealing the back and ends. 
   Pappy

[crooketarrow]

  I'm with PAPPY no osage cut in NOV. to dry where ever your at. I have lots of staves cut form 5 years to 20 years old. Just go and get one and have sold dozzens never heard back.
  Texas may have a less hummity that here in WV. But I've never heard of osage getting to dry to build a bow. LOTS OF OILS AND RESINS ALONG WITH THE MOSTURE. But like said those metors with the pins only go 32 maybe a 16 th it you really push them in hard.
 Just keep them in a room with a hummitfirer and let it rehydrate. There's a lot of people on here from TX'S that will know far more than me.

[tom sawyer]

No matter where you kept it,Osage cut in November with the bark/sap wood still on ant to dry that's for sure. Never used a meter or weight much.You can usually tell when it's wet or to dry by the way the wood works. Lot of science in my bow building.    Good advice above on roughing it out and sealing the back and ends. 
   Pappy

Yep if you have to brush out your rasp after every stroke, the woods wet.