I would first smooth out the transition at the fades. They look rather sharp and abrupt...that is, they don't follow a gentle curve into the limb. This will spell trouble, particularly if you've glued on a riser block. The thickness of the limb should always begin to thicken in the limbs before you get to the riser block. You probably still have enough wood to achieve this. If not, you can remove the riser block (Titebond releases at 150 degrees F, or you could sand it off) and apply several thin laminations to build up the handle. These will bend slightly and keep the riser block you glued on from popping off.
Second, I would get the poundage down now be removing equal amounts of wood from both limbs. If you can't string it, it's to heavy and you'll risk damaging the bow by drawing it past your intended draw weight (a no-no if you want to minimize set and stress to the wood). Last, use some sort of stringer to properly string it up. That will help reduce the risk of damage to the bow and to you
Once you're there, then we can start dealing with the details of the tiller. Right now, there's apparently a lot of wood left to remove, and a lot can happen to the tiller in the process. Nice start, though