Author Topic: Started(and finished) my first Hickory selfbow (Read 9878 times)

Cardboard_Duck · « **on:** December 12, 2012, 09:04:17 pm »

I roughed it out today and it is 66" tip to tip and about 5/8" thick. I am making it for my father-in-law for christmas. It is 1 3/4" at the fades and tapers to 1/2" right now. I decided to go with a pyramid style after reading about parallel and pyramid bows until my eyes hurt... Anyways I am shooting for around #40-45 @ 28". It was a really nice stave with some natural reflex and almost perfectly straight grain, but there was a knot and I hope I laid it out so it won't give me a problem...

I went around the knot... Can I just cut through it without weakening the handle? The center of the knot is on the edge of where the handle would be.

I think I will have to kick the top limb over a pinch

Natural reflex

Any comments, concerns, or constructive criticism are always welcome

RyanY · « **Reply #1 on:** December 12, 2012, 09:36:03 pm »

With that much depth in your handle I bet you could cut through it no problem. Hickory is mighty! The way you have your layout right now it means the width at mid limb is only 1 1/8". That's pretty narrow so you might not be able to get 40-45# without taking quite a bit of set. If you start getting a lot of set early then you may need to decide on a lighter draw weight.

Dictionary · « **Reply #2 on:** December 12, 2012, 09:59:52 pm »

or accept a little bit more of set.

randman · « **Reply #3 on:** December 12, 2012, 10:08:32 pm »

That knot won't give you any problem where it's at on that deep handle. Just shave it off to the handle line an round the whole thing over.
So could a lighter bow with no set be as fast as a heavier bow with lots of set? Jus askin................

steve b. · « **Reply #4 on:** December 12, 2012, 10:19:46 pm »

I agree with you randman. I would cut the knot off and I would go for no more than 1" of set, meaning limbs end up pretty straight, and call it done, no matter the weight.

Cardboard_Duck · « **Reply #5 on:** December 12, 2012, 10:24:56 pm »

So, I should have gone wider or with a parallel limb design? Oh well, learning is half the fun right

I'm not so worried about the weight, He has a bad shoulder and wrist so the lighter the better I guess.

Dictionary · « **Reply #6 on:** December 12, 2012, 10:39:08 pm »

Don't worry so much about the set. Just get those limbs bending evenly at your draw weight/length preferred.

But yes, wider limbs=less set. I think for 40 pounds though 1 1/4 shouldnt take much set.

Stingray45 · « **Reply #7 on:** December 12, 2012, 11:03:50 pm »

Hey Duck,

Looks good so far. I agree with Ryoon also. Your handle looks thick enough and it appears you are doing a non-bendy handle that you could cut right through that knot. Or you might actually be able to shape it up and use it as the arrow shelf if you plan on putting one on it.

~Barry

steve b. · « **Reply #8 on:** December 13, 2012, 12:24:12 am »

It may be fine for 40+ lbs., it depends on the stave, the moisture content, your patience in tillering, the final width, etc. I just finished an oak that was not nearly that long and it was pyramid and came in under 40 lbs. and it was no wider than that. So you have a real chance.

If it was a lefty I would say to work that knot down so it pokes out of the leather handle wrap and splits your fingers.....just for something different.

And I would say, no, to parallel; pyramid is the way to go.

Pappy · « **Reply #9 on:** December 13, 2012, 06:24:25 am »

Agree with the rest on the handle, but think if you keep it dry in between workings and take your time tillering you can get the weight you want,I probably would have went a little longer for 28 draw you will only be 64 n-n but that should work with out to much set. I would first be sure he really draws 28,everyone says they do but in reality they don't.

:)We lay them out that way all the time.

Pappy

Cardboard_Duck · « **Reply #10 on:** December 13, 2012, 07:48:22 am »

Thanks for the advice everybody

He really only draws to about 26", I just want to tiller it out a little further for good measure.

Funny story about figuring out his draw. I knew if I came out and asked him what his draw length was he would get suspicious and know I was going to make him a bow. I had the inlaws over for dinner, had all of my bows set up ready to shoot and the arrows marked at 1" increments about 6" back from the insert. When he drew I just counted back marks and subtracted them from the arrow length.

Del the cat · « **Reply #11 on:** December 13, 2012, 08:29:32 am »

Don't get too obsessed with on set.
If the bow will sit on the floor with the belly side of of the grip touching the floor and the tips are only just about touching or are still off the floor that's fine.
On my bows (which don't have thick grips) I reckon to have the tips on the floor and a one or two finger gap between foor and grip as ok.
A little set can give a smooth shooting bow that's easier to string too.
Del

Pappy · « **Reply #12 on:** December 13, 2012, 08:44:10 am »

I agree with Del on the set thing, Hickory is tough and if it was me and he draws 26 I would only tiller out to 27,that will help with the set,no reason to pull one more than it is going to be shot,at least that is what I think and do.

I usuall tiller
mine out if it is for me to 26 then pull a few time to 27 just for a confident thing for me.

Pappy

blackhawk · « **Reply #13 on:** December 13, 2012, 08:55:45 am »

I disagree with everybody

.....id cut that thang up into smoking chips,put em in some water to soak,grab a yard bird an inject it with some seasonings,and throw it all in the smoker

...mmm tasty smoked hickory chicken

id find much more enjoyment and pleasure in that

Pappy · « **Reply #14 on:** December 13, 2012, 09:07:03 am »

Man you are on a roll today Chris.

Does sound good tho.

Pappy

Primitive Archer