hows she looking

[Del the cat]

Just keep pulling it back to 50# and watch the draw length increase as you take off wood and you'll get back to exactly 50# at 28"
(Assuming you brace it to it's final height)
Del

[DarkSoul]

That's looking real good! You cleary learned a lot from your previous bow.
Del has give some excellent advice. Listen to him. I would think you can round the corners a bit; they seem a bit sharp, but hard to tell. Tillering requires only a few scapes now. Take it slow...
The left inner limb (4" out from the handle) appears a bit stiff.

[danny f]

thanks again, yes the corners need rounding off,  i haven't really rounded them off properly yet. i have definately learned alot from the first bow and all the advice i have been given from everyone especially del. i will get cracking on it in the morning. and see how it goes. i will be well pleased if i hit the 50 pound mark with a good tiller. 

[danny f]

i forgot to ask before what height should i brace to as i went to an archery shop yesterday for a string for my first bow. and he said my brace was to low,  and that it needed to be about 8" whicjh i thought was to high

[DarkSoul]

I personally round the edges on the back of the bow as soon as I reach floor tiller and the width has been established. If the bow has been cut to width, you will not 'scrape away' wood during tillering, thus losing the rounded edges. Sharp corners on the back of a bow are the number one place for a splinter to lift. It's best to round the corners no later than half way tillering. There's no sense in doing it any later.

Yes, 8" of braceheight is way too much! That person is clearly only familiar with modern recurves, which do have about 8" of braceheight. You need a braceheight that clears the feathers of the arrows, which in practice is about 5½ to 6½ inches, measured from the belly of the handle.

[wvarcher]

  Looks like u are off to a really good start.

[Del the cat]

i forgot to ask before what height should i brace to as i went to an archery shop yesterday for a string for my first bow. and he said my brace was to low,  and that it needed to be about 8" whicjh i thought was to high

Arrrghhh.. NO no no no no .
YOU made it YOU decide on the brace height, based on design, gut feel and the friendly advice of us guys here! 
Then you make your own.
Yup you are right 8" is waaaay too high. Guy in an archery shop ... does he make bows? Prob just shoots compounds and recurves (spits on floor)?
Any how I use my fistimelle (fist with thumb sticking up) as a maximium measure and go down a bit on some primitives.
So anywhere from 5 - 6 1/2 " for me.
Del

[danny f]

i thought it was wrong. he was on about the string slapping my wrist if the brace was as low as i had it. heres a pic of how it looks now i have been putting  a roll of selotape on the camera screen to check the tiller and i think the curve is almost perfect the right limb needs a couple of light scrapes right near the tip and it should be ok, does this sound correct or im i still out.  i am now starting to learn where to scrape to make the bow go the way i want. heres a pic its pulling 50 pound at 24" so i need to take abit more wood off yet.

[Del the cat]

yup, with 4" to go she's pretty ggod.
I'd say the right limb is a whisker stronger/straighter than the left.
Which is the top limb? (I always put top limb to the right it helps to stop me working on the wrong limb by mistake... I'm sure we've all done that)
The outer1/2 - 2/3 of the  right limb can have wood removed.
A good trick is to run a pencil line along the bit to be worked and then scrape off the pencil line.
Pencil along the outer 2/3, scrape it off. Pencil along the outer 1/2 scrape it off. Pencil along the last 1/4 scrape it off and then get it back on the tiller.
Before doing that you could look at narrowing the tips, (last 1/3 - 1/4 of the limb) if that's what you fancy, it won't make too much difference to the draw weight or tiller but will prob get you back another 2" and get the outer half moving a whisker more.
Gotta go your own way tho' it just depends how you want it to look.
A little warning...!
Now is a good time to actually get it in front of a mirror or get someone to take a pick of you with it drawn with an arrow on it. A real draw can look quite a bit different to how she looks on the tiller. I'd be doing a few test shots from a shortish draw about now, exercising it plenty, taking lots of pics or even video of it actually being pulled back on the tiller so I can watch it flex and drinking lots of tea. Now is really your last chance to make any real changes in the tiller without missing your target weight.
Del
(Pacing up and down worrying helps too  )

[danny f]

thanks for all the advice del.

[danny f]

heres a short video i haven't done any more scraping since the last pic the only thing i have done is round of the edges on the back. the bow is the same way round as in the pics.

[Del the cat]

Blimey! I nearly fell of my chair as the still is at the wrong aspect ratio and makes it look like it's ready to explode .
The vid is nice, it pretty much shows what I'd said, the middle of the bow is working fine, I'd say the outer half of each limb (especially the right)could work a bit more just to get those last few inches without overstressing the middle of the bow. It will also loose some mass off the tips/last third which will help speed.
You still havn't said which limb is going to be the top.
If I have to come over there to have a look there will be trouble
This is all just my view on it of course.... others my want to comment, or maybe they are letting me and my big mouth dig a big hole
Del

[danny f]

here is a vid of how it is now. i seem to be struggling abit with the final adjustments. i have taken wood of the tips,  it is still only drawing 25.5" im not sure where to remove from, the left limb has started to look abit stiff to me. im not sure which limb is the top( the right limb has 2/16 ths more of a gap from the fade) so would this normally be the top or bottom or top limb?

[danny f]

just watched it again i think i need to remove to some wood on the left lmb from the fade out about 9"

[Del the cat]

just watched it again i think i need to remove to some wood on the left lmb from the fade out about 9"

I can see what you mean. It's all getting pretty subtle now. take care not to overdo it, just coax her back to full draw by a fine adjustments.
Remember the golden rule...
When in doubt, stop.
It's looking good, nice to see it flexing.
Del